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By Mike Yuhnke
From Potsdam,NY
May 10, 2014

Hi I'm passing through WI with two other climbers and we are going to stop at Devils Lake for a day to climb, from my research the area looks big. I'm looking for some advice from a local; if you had only 1 day to climb what area would you go? Were looking to lead very easy routes up to 5.7 and maybe pull harder on TR at the end of the day. Specifics would be great and where to camp would be a bonus. Were probably rolling in around 1am Sunday night and hoping to crag on Monday.

Thanks,
Mike


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By Doug Hemken
Administrator
May 10, 2014
On Everleigh Club Crack.  Photo by Burt Lindquist.

Monday? East Rampart.


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By ccerling
From Boston, MA
May 10, 2014
me

Brinton's Crack


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By roger fritz from rockford, IL
May 10, 2014
Wichita Mountains, Sunshine Wall

I totally agree what the other 2 guys said...to expound a little bit: some of my favorite 5.4-5.7 leads because they are fun and hold many options for protection:
False Alarm Jam 5.7, Double overhang 5.4, Berkeley 5.6, Coatamundi Crack 5.6 (Brintons 5.6 is on that list too)

Have a great day...

r


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By roger fritz from rockford, IL
May 10, 2014
Wichita Mountains, Sunshine Wall

Camp In the park : ) Campground is on the north shore off County DL


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By Mike Yuhnke
From Potsdam,NY
May 10, 2014

Thanks everyone. Looks like the weather is looking sub optimal on Monday. Might just keep on trucking and make our way forwards Custard State Park SD. Anyone have any experience there?


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By Chris treggE
Administrator
From Madison, WI
May 10, 2014
Devil's Doorway "summit"

"Custard State Park".

LOL! Named after Lt. Colonel Custard.

-----------------------------------------------

Anyway, yes, you should go there. It's awesome.


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By flynn
May 10, 2014

Custer, a.k.a. The Needles, is terrific. Gorgeous place, and very unique. Climbing at all grades. Pro can be very, very iffy, so inquire locally. Ask about the descents, too (heehee). Have fun!


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By Mike Yuhnke
From Potsdam,NY
May 10, 2014

Thanks I didn't Proof read my writing and it auto corrected Custard haha. Yeah I'm very stoked to go there and I've heard about the simul raps. What do you mean by tricky pro placement? Is there any specific areas there anyone recommends? Again I'd be looking for easy moderates and also being a new visitor easy to find routes are nice too


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By Chris treggE
Administrator
From Madison, WI
May 10, 2014
Devil's Doorway "summit"

Do this one: mountainproject.com/v/cerberus/105714761

20 feet from the road. Pro is not tricky on it. Simul rap.


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By roger fritz from rockford, IL
May 11, 2014
Wichita Mountains, Sunshine Wall

Run up devils tower...say hi to frank sanders for me; )


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By Doug Hemken
Administrator
May 11, 2014
On Everleigh Club Crack.  Photo by Burt Lindquist.

If this is an extended road trip, then Blue Mound in Minnesota could be worth a day.


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By Matt Diestelmeier
May 11, 2014

You guys should definitely come to devil's lake on Wednesday! I'm an AZ climber and am looking for some people to climb with. I was hoping to climb on Monday or Tuesday but rain looks promising.


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By Mike Yuhnke
From Potsdam,NY
May 11, 2014

Thanks this is an extended trip east to west stops in WI SD Devils tower Wyoming Bozeman MT and Red Rock Vegas. In that order. We will have a dog until we get to Bozeman does anyone know where I could board it while I climb DT?


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By Mike Yuhnke
From Potsdam,NY
May 11, 2014

On Wednesday we hope to be at Needles SD


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By Ed Wright
May 12, 2014
Magic Ed

Devil's Lake deserves more than one day. It'll take a while to get used to the rock and the lack of friction.


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