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May 10, 2014
Hi I'm passing through WI with two other climbers and we are going to stop at Devils Lake for a day to climb, from my research the area looks big. I'm looking for some advice from a local; if you had only 1 day to climb what area would you go? Were looking to lead very easy routes up to 5.7 and maybe pull harder on TR at the end of the day. Specifics would be great and where to camp would be a bonus. Were probably rolling in around 1am Sunday night and hoping to crag on Monday.

Thanks,
Mike
Mike Yuhnke
From Potsdam,NY
Joined Nov 15, 2010
16 points
Administrator
May 10, 2014
On Everleigh Club Crack.  Photo by Burt Lindquist.
Monday? East Rampart. Doug Hemken
Joined Oct 1, 2004
5,216 points
May 10, 2014
me
Brinton's Crack ccerling
From Boulder, CO
Joined Mar 29, 2010
71 points
May 10, 2014
Wichita Mountains, Sunshine Wall
I totally agree what the other 2 guys said...to expound a little bit: some of my favorite 5.4-5.7 leads because they are fun and hold many options for protection:
False Alarm Jam 5.7, Double overhang 5.4, Berkeley 5.6, Coatamundi Crack 5.6 (Brintons 5.6 is on that list too)

Have a great day...

r
roger fritz from rockford, IL
From Rockford, IL
Joined Aug 9, 2009
51 points
May 10, 2014
Wichita Mountains, Sunshine Wall
Camp In the park : ) Campground is on the north shore off County DL roger fritz from rockford, IL
From Rockford, IL
Joined Aug 9, 2009
51 points
May 10, 2014
Thanks everyone. Looks like the weather is looking sub optimal on Monday. Might just keep on trucking and make our way forwards Custard State Park SD. Anyone have any experience there? Mike Yuhnke
From Potsdam,NY
Joined Nov 15, 2010
16 points
Administrator
May 10, 2014
This problem haunted my dreams for 6 years after f...
"Custard State Park".

LOL! Named after Lt. Colonel Custard.

-----------------------------------------------

Anyway, yes, you should go there. It's awesome.
Chris treggE
From Madison, WI
Joined May 25, 2007
9,213 points
May 10, 2014
Custer, a.k.a. The Needles, is terrific. Gorgeous place, and very unique. Climbing at all grades. Pro can be very, very iffy, so inquire locally. Ask about the descents, too (heehee). Have fun! flynn
Joined Feb 9, 2002
86 points
May 10, 2014
Thanks I didn't Proof read my writing and it auto corrected Custard haha. Yeah I'm very stoked to go there and I've heard about the simul raps. What do you mean by tricky pro placement? Is there any specific areas there anyone recommends? Again I'd be looking for easy moderates and also being a new visitor easy to find routes are nice too Mike Yuhnke
From Potsdam,NY
Joined Nov 15, 2010
16 points
Administrator
May 10, 2014
This problem haunted my dreams for 6 years after f...
Do this one: mountainproject.com/v/cerberus...

20 feet from the road. Pro is not tricky on it. Simul rap.
Chris treggE
From Madison, WI
Joined May 25, 2007
9,213 points
May 11, 2014
Wichita Mountains, Sunshine Wall
Run up devils tower...say hi to frank sanders for me; ) roger fritz from rockford, IL
From Rockford, IL
Joined Aug 9, 2009
51 points
Administrator
May 11, 2014
On Everleigh Club Crack.  Photo by Burt Lindquist.
If this is an extended road trip, then Blue Mound in Minnesota could be worth a day. Doug Hemken
Joined Oct 1, 2004
5,216 points
May 11, 2014
You guys should definitely come to devil's lake on Wednesday! I'm an AZ climber and am looking for some people to climb with. I was hoping to climb on Monday or Tuesday but rain looks promising. Matt Diestelmeier
Joined May 7, 2014
0 points
May 11, 2014
Thanks this is an extended trip east to west stops in WI SD Devils tower Wyoming Bozeman MT and Red Rock Vegas. In that order. We will have a dog until we get to Bozeman does anyone know where I could board it while I climb DT? Mike Yuhnke
From Potsdam,NY
Joined Nov 15, 2010
16 points
May 11, 2014
On Wednesday we hope to be at Needles SD Mike Yuhnke
From Potsdam,NY
Joined Nov 15, 2010
16 points
May 12, 2014
Magic Ed
Devil's Lake deserves more than one day. It'll take a while to get used to the rock and the lack of friction. Ed Wright
Joined May 14, 2006
332 points


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