This set of West-facing crags sits on the ridge of Bear Peak, between the West Face of the Devil's Wings and the Devil's Thumb. There are 3 prominent outcroppings here, the Northernmost having a few fins of rock reminiscent of Cadillac Crag, in Eldo, the next being less distinct, but broader, and then a third, a broken band just North of the Devil's Thumb.
While each of these faces predominantly west, there are more Southern or Northern aspects to each, and varying amounts of exposure or shade by trees or rock.
The rock quality is mostly good, but lack of popular travel means more loose flakes than in a place that is well traveled. If you goal is to be alone for the day, this could be the place.
Approach as for Devil's Thumb, but continue North up below the cliff line, keeping an eye out for some distinct lines, so of which have been climbed, others not.
The fourth Wise Monkey? (See No Evil, Speak No Evil, Hear No Evil)Approach via a brief scramble to reach a tree down perhaps 20 feet from the obvious handcrack and set a belay up. Lead up cracks and flakes to a small bulge, then stem and jam over the bulge into the main handcrack. Continue to a top-out on the ledge and belay from a cordalette on a large boulder back behind the edge.To descend, first visit the summit, up and North, then climb back down, scramble around the summit to the north, t...[more]Browse More Classics in CO