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Devil's Gulch and Dry Gulch Roads
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Cow Creek Canyon / McGraw Ranch trailhead 
Switchback Crags 

Devil's Gulch and Dry Gulch Roads 


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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Mar 2, 2006

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A rainbow pointing to the pot of gold after the sp...

Description 

Devil's Gulch Road goes NE of Estes Park and is the continuation of MacGregor Ave. It is the road off which the Gem Lake Trailhead, the new Lumpy Ridge access point, Alligator Rock, Crescent Arch, Sheep Mountain, Pulpit Rock, Rabbit Ears' Rock, Combat Rock, Cedar Park Slab (aka Seam Rock), and other miscellaneous crags can be accessed. The shortest line of access to some of these crags go through private lands, so check out your approach and ownership of the land if you explore beyond the established crags.

Dry Gulch Road is the road going N-S from which Eagle Rock, Crossier Dome were once formerly accessed. It also passes the eastern flank of Mt. Olympus. There are scattered rock formation visible form various roads that lies just E of the road. Access and ownership are not clear and should be thoroughly investigated prior to exploration.

The crags here are largely granitic in origin although there are some other interesting rock types mixed in here. There are other crags here that have not been entered within MP.com's and possibly the rock climbers' database.


Getting There 

Devil's Gulch & Dry Gulch Roads are located N and E of Estes Park. Devil's Gulch Rd, an NE-SW road, is the continuation of MacGregor Ave as it passes the old Twin Owls parking lot access through MacGregor Ranch and continues past the Gem Lake Trailhead access. It continues down towards Glen Haven and eventually Drake. Dry Gulch Rd, a N-S road, lies to the East of Estes Park and is accessed off US 34 on the N side of Lake Estes. It passes the east flank of Mt. Olympus and the obvious, now closed, Eagle Rock and Eagle Rock School Road. Its northern terminus lies just E of Devil's Gulch Rd.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Devil's Gulch and Dry Gulch Roads:
Anatomically Incorrect   5.5 R     Trad, 1 pitch, 190 feet   Pulpit Rock Massif : Pulpit Rock
Elmo Amber Alert   5.7     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Pulpit Rock Massif : First Pew
Crystal Highway   5.7 PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 340 feet   Pulpit Rock Massif : Second Pew
Prime Real Estate Crack   5.7+     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Switchback Crags : Left Crag (Main)
Pulpit Rock Left   5.8+ PG13     Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 360 feet   Pulpit Rock Massif : Pulpit Rock
Peachtree Street   5.8+     Trad, 1 pitch, 170 feet   Pulpit Rock Massif : Pulpit Rock
Tiptoe Through The Tulips   5.8+     TR, 1 pitch   Pulpit Rock Massif : Pulpit Rock
Georgia Style   5.9+     Trad, 2 pitches, 315 feet   Pulpit Rock Massif : First Pew
Small Paradise   5.10a     Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Cow Creek Canyon / McGraw R... : Rabbit Ears Rock
Double Fantasy   5.10a     Trad, 3 pitches   Cow Creek Canyon / McGraw R... : Sheep Mountain Rock
Vegetative Estate    5.10     TR, 1 pitch, 55 feet   Pulpit Rock Massif : Pulpit Rock
Unknown 2   5.10     TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Pulpit Rock Massif : First Pew
New York Reload   5.10     TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Pulpit Rock Massif : First Pew
Gimmerton Corner   5.10b/c     Trad, 3 pitches, 350 feet   Cow Creek Canyon / McGraw R... : Sheep Mountain Rock
Blank Face (TR)   5.10b/c R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 35 feet   Switchback Crags : Left Crag (Main)
Coke and a Smoke   5.10c     Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Cow Creek Canyon / McGraw R... : Rabbit Ears Rock
Unknown 4   5.10+     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Pulpit Rock Massif : First Pew
Step Up Or Step Aside   5.10+     Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 115 feet   Pulpit Rock Massif : Second Pew
Garden Party   5.11b     TR, 1 pitch, 55 feet   Pulpit Rock Massif : Pulpit Rock
Face With Bolt Route   5.11+     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 85 feet   Pulpit Rock Massif : Second Pew
Browse More Classics in Devil's Gulch and Dry Gulch Roads

Featured Route For Devil's Gulch and Dry Gulch Roads
George rests between the cruxes.

Unknown 2 5.10  CO : Estes Park Valley : ... : First Pew
This is the second from the left of the 4 sport climbs put in late 2012 on the far right side of the 1st Pew. It ascends a slightly concave slab on small, slightly crunchy holds.Climb up & clip the 1st bolt (which seems to have been removed as of 5/14/13). You can go up or move left and up (easier). At the 3rd bolt (which seems to have been removed as of 5/14/13), there is a reachy move. Around the 5th bolt (which seems to have been removed as of 5/14/13), choose holds for the feet or holds ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO


Comments on Devil's Gulch and Dry Gulch Roads Add Comment
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By kevinnlong
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 5, 2008

ACCESS ISSUES to EAGLE ROCK AND CROSSIER DOME:

We were told by a resident of the Eagle Rock School Road that all access from that road to Eagle rock and Crossier Dome has been revoked due to liability issues. If climbers want access, they need to speak with the McGregor Ranch People who own the land on which the domes sit. Unfortunately, this may not allow access from the road....

By Christy-Dale
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 16, 2012

Dry Gulch Road is closed today for unknown reasons. The detour suggested by RMNP staff - turn around, take US 34 E as if headed to Loveland. At Dry Gulch Rd, turn N for about 3 miles, then L back onto Devil's Gulch. It means you'll approach parking from the N instead of the S.