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Devil's Glen

Devil's Glen  


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Administrators: Morgan Patterson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Dave Bernstein on Sep 10, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: Mid way up Devils Dander 5.11 V4/5

Town property "Residents Only" MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Devils Den area in Weston, CT and Devils Glen are both quiet and superb climbing locations. Devils Glen is a deep water soloing location with one established route that has seen a recent first ascent. Devils Dander (5.11 v4/5) is a 25-30 foot highball boulder problem that is beautifully set at a cliff jumping spot, popular to local teens. The route is easily top roped, but much more fun to solo. Its a scenic area with great views and accessibility right on the roadside, but its not legal to be there because the town doesn't want people jumping of the rocks. I projected this climb as a novice climber for a year, sending it this Summer after a friend revealed some productive beta. The route has an excellent ledge just above water level to gear up; it is an overhanging face climb with some moves that utilize the arete feature (but be careful because too far left or right of the distinguished line and the fall gets sketchy); the problem becomes increasingly difficult as you progress, starting at about 5.9 on the lower moves with crux moves that are easily 5.11a/b, possibly greater. Falls are safe on this line because of the direct line that overhangs right over the designated jumping water hole. The route also goes as an eliminate, without using the crucial arete crimp on the right face the sequence requires an athletic dyno to a side pull, letter grade harder maybe? Both variations have seen multiple ascents but only by me and my climbing partner who projected the route. I'd love to see a repeat and get some feedback from an alternative source to confirm my grading and enjoy the amazing feeling of a safe free solo in such an aesthetic location. Its my own king line and I'm trying to get it some exposure. Check out the photos to get you riled up.. Please contact me if you're thinking about climbing there, I know my way around the area quite well. Or just type in Devils Dander on Youtube for some footage of the first and second ascents.

Getting There 

Exit 44 off the Merritt (Rt. 15), head towards Reservoir, away from Fairfield towards Weston on 58. Take left at first intersection after passing the Reservoir on your right. Take a right at the stop sign. Follow that road until it ends at a stop sign, turn right onto Valley Forge Road. Its a quarter mile down the road on the left. There is usually a large construction truck parked across the street blocking a hilly driveway from being parked in. There is NO LEGAL PARKING.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.2 miles from here


Photos of Devil's Glen Slideshow Add Photo
dyno version of the route
dyno version of the route
look closely for beta
BETA PHOTO: look closely for beta
cruxing
cruxing
Tall man (6'4") beta for the  crux.
Tall man (6'4") beta for the crux.

Comments on Devil's Glen Add Comment
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By T Seas
Oct 21, 2009
I'm itching to check this place out now, is there other bouldering/climbing in the immediate area or just the one dws line? (which is still plenty for me to take the drive) Also I was hoping for claification on the driections, I'll post a map which shows where I would think to park but am not sure as first stop signs are not noted on googlemaps. Thanks for the beta on a DWS place in CT, I have heard rumours and now they are confirmed! (If anyone is brave to DWS at night, brownstone quaries has 2 confirmed dws lines and probably many more, they're just a pain to get to, and if they catch you I bet they would be pretty pisssed. I personally would gladly pay admission to scout dws potential but they do not allow DWS only roped climbing with inept instructors, damn lawyers)
By christopher adams
Feb 18, 2010
Seems like there's some potential for harder lines to the right of this, if the water is deep enough there. It looks wet and would probably take a bit of cleaning, but we've got so little overhanging rock in ct, and even less DWS.
By Will Maxwell
From: Connecticut
May 11, 2010
I grew up in this area, and used to mess around on that rock in the late 90's. It is a fun little place. But don't get caught, there is a fine, and it is posted. Don't park on the road near the hole, that would be asking for it. If you are looking for more climbing in the area, look at great ledge. Or meet up with someone that knows the SWC bouldering circuit.
By czd
Jul 27, 2010
There is deep water soloing in connecticiut... check out youtube videos for "ct cliff jumping" or something similar, and you will find some surprisingly large cliffs that people have been jumping off of for a while (and maybe climbing up too).
By Alec32
From: Brooklyn, NY
Jun 11, 2013
I grew up about a quarter mile from "Devil's Glen." (It seems that the Devil's Den climbing is in another section on the site? Maybe we can rename this one "Devil's Glen"?) We used to jump off these rocks all the time (ca. 200-2002). Cops would come and kick us out every once in a while. Never got a fine, though.

Once, I was TRing a (hard!) project on the side of the Glen closest to the road. (One of my TR "anchors" was a giant metal spike sticking out of the rock--wtf was I thinking?) I had been working the thing to death, when all of a sudden a cop shows up and peers over the lip. We thought we were gonna lose our gear, and were not happy about it. He just asked us what the fuck we were doing. We told him we were climbing, and he asked us if we were from Weston. I said I lived down the road, and he said "Ok! Have fun and be careful!" and walked away. Gotta say, the Weston cops are pretty chill.

I think since then, things have gotten out of control. I regularly see large groups of kids cliff jumping there, and I think the cops swing by regularly to kick people out. I wouldn't chance it any more.
By andyelliott
Nov 25, 2013
I posted a photo of my beta. Im 6'4" and i get the right hand arete and the good left hand and then just go for the sloper with right hand and hold on cause you swing. from there get left heel up, get the next good hold and then the slot and top it out. really fun route i wish it was longer. All in all id say its around 5.11c or v4. Also watch out for cops. they give tickets out for swimming, and i heard a guy say they give out bigger tickets for jumping, something about suicide danger...