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Devil's Gap

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Orient Point - North 
Phantom Crag 
Planters Valley 

Devil's Gap  


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Administrators: Tom Gnyra, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jordan Ramey on Aug 10, 2011
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The Phantom Tower, Bonanza Area, Kemp Shield, etc....

Description 

Home of Planters Valley, Bonanza Area, Kemp Shield, Orient Point, Spectre Crag, The Phantom Tower, etc...

Getting There 

Also known as Lake Minnewanka Valley.

From the bottom of The Big Hill to Planters Valley:
Turn left into the riverbed and head south hopefully following a "road" of sorts in the soft loose rocks. Pass several large boulder breakwaters until it is possible to finish crossing the riving and come up the other bank. Follow the good road south for about 100m, where it then turns west to a three-way intersection. Go straight and cross some gravel flats and possibly cross shallow creeks in several spots (depending on water levels) and a gravel / dirt "road" that ends at the Banff National Park Boundary sign and pullout.

The "First Branch" from the 3-way just follows the river south somewhere. The "middle branch" ends up at the same planters valley parking by the Banff sign, but has recently been tougher to navigate.

If the road is terrible from the intersection, getting out and walking isn't to bad.

Don't drive into the national park because: 1. You'll hardly get any closer to the climber area, maybe saving 10 minutes of walking and you'll likely get a huge fine if you get busted.

Climbing Season

For the Alberta area.

Weather station 9.4 miles from here

6 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Devil's Gap:
Wicked Wanda   WI4+     Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 180'   Orient Point - North
Aquarius   WI4     Ice, 1 pitch, 200'   Phantom Crag
Malignant Mushroom   WI5     Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 180'   Phantom Crag
Rainbow Serpent   WI6     Ice, 2 pitches, 400'   Phantom Crag
Browse More Classics in Devil's Gap

Featured Route For Devil's Gap
Aquarius

Aquarius WI4  North America : Canada : ... : Phantom Crag
Aquarius is an excellent route that can be done in one long pitch. 60m ropes will barely reach! The route is straight forward WI4 climbing, and has one bit of vertical ice that goes on for about 5m. As the season wears on, the top of the route gets more and more sun and will melt out first. It can still be climbed with 4 or 5 meters of bare rock showing, and can be protected on the left with a #3 camalot. The bowl at the top of the route is Recital Hall, and you'll be able to see Fearf...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Devil's Gap Slideshow Add Photo
The Devil's Gap in the South Ghost. Orient point o...
The Devil's Gap in the South Ghost. Orient point o...
Orient Point as seen from the approach road into t...
Orient Point as seen from the approach road into t...

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