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Devil's Gap

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Orient Point - North 
Phantom Crag 
Planters Valley 

Devil's Gap Rock Climbing 

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Administrators: Tom Gnyra, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jordan Ramey on Aug 10, 2011
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The Phantom Tower, Bonanza Area, Kemp Shield, etc....


Home of Planters Valley, Bonanza Area, Kemp Shield, Orient Point, Spectre Crag, The Phantom Tower, etc...

Getting There 

Also known as Lake Minnewanka Valley.

From the bottom of The Big Hill to Planters Valley:
Turn left into the riverbed and head south hopefully following a "road" of sorts in the soft loose rocks. Pass several large boulder breakwaters until it is possible to finish crossing the riving and come up the other bank. Follow the good road south for about 100m, where it then turns west to a three-way intersection. Go straight and cross some gravel flats and possibly cross shallow creeks in several spots (depending on water levels) and a gravel / dirt "road" that ends at the Banff National Park Boundary sign and pullout.

The "First Branch" from the 3-way just follows the river south somewhere. The "middle branch" ends up at the same planters valley parking by the Banff sign, but has recently been tougher to navigate.

If the road is terrible from the intersection, getting out and walking isn't to bad.

Don't drive into the national park because: 1. You'll hardly get any closer to the climber area, maybe saving 10 minutes of walking and you'll likely get a huge fine if you get busted.

Climbing Season

For the Alberta area.

Weather station 9.4 miles from here

6 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Devil's Gap

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Devil's Gap:
Wicked Wanda   WI4+     Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 180'   Orient Point - North
Aquarius   WI4     Ice, 1 pitch, 200'   Phantom Crag
Malignant Mushroom   WI5     Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 180'   Phantom Crag
Fearful Symmetry   WI6     Ice, 1 pitch, 180'   Phantom Crag
Rainbow Serpent   WI6     Ice, 2 pitches, 400'   Phantom Crag
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Devil's Gap

Featured Route For Devil's Gap
Rock Climbing Photo: Malignant Mushroom

Malignant Mushroom WI5  North America : Canada : ... : Phantom Crag
One of the best things about this route is it has just about the shortest approaches any where in the Ghost. Just 30-40 minutes and you're there. This also means it gets lots of traffic. It forms every year, but due to its south-facing orientation, it deteriorates as the season progresses.Pick the driest line, it will be about the same no matter which way you go. It's going to be 55 meters of steep, continuous ice, with the occasional bump to grab a rest on. There is a rappel anchor on the ...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Devil's Gap Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Devil's Gap in the South Ghost. Orient point o...
The Devil's Gap in the South Ghost. Orient point o...
Rock Climbing Photo: Orient Point as seen from the approach road into t...
Orient Point as seen from the approach road into t...

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