Scattered around the base of the Devil's Den cliffband are a collection of boulders that vary in size from puny to house sized. For the most part, the bouldering was developed in the late 90's and, aside from the classics, hasn't seen much attention since. As a result, most of the easier and less popular climbs have been slowly reclaimed by the moss and lichen. The ice storm a few years ago dropped numerous trees as well, further keeping people away from the problems in the talus and away from the trail. Regardless, there are a handful of problems here that should be on everyone's must do list - that is, if you can climb V7 and keep a cool head up high.
Where Am I Going?
Follow the trail from Boulder Natural towards North Mountain which is well marked and easy to follow. In less than 5 minutes the first boulder (The Premiere) is visible on the left. The Walrus is up the hill behind it, although it is best reached from further up the trail. Continue on the trail to the Dust Boulder and more, all on the left below the cliff.
I came to check this area out the other day, I was heavily disappointed, there are downed trees all over the place, lichen covering almost everything, there is good potential, but it need some serious TLC.
An area like this doesn't see that much traffic because the grades keep the crowds away (mostly v5 and up). Because of this bouldering here feels and looks like everthing is an fa. Lose the guide, grab a brush and a 12 pack and you'll find some good stuff. Check out the routes on the cliff too, some awesome stuff, some WIDE too. Nice.
By BDalhaus Administrator From: Manchester, NH Mar 17, 2010
If you're seeking problems that are below V5, I'll agree, it's probably not worth the walk. Most of the problems in the guide were first climbed at least a decade ago and haven't been touched since. However, the problems that are still clean are the ones that are really worth climbing, most of which happen to be V6 or V7 and tall. The only horizontal crack I can think of is a hard V9.
What is the hard face climb directly to the left of Red? It starts on two full two pad crimps, crosses to a bad two finger gastone, hits a half pad crimp, then hits the upper red good hold and finishes up the arete.
Does anybody know what the (decomposing) 'Walrus' goes at grade wise? I know the rock quality is a little sub par but I feel like this is one of the coolest look lines I've seen at Pway. Looks like it's been getting a lot of love lately.
Also, I have to say, this might be my favorite area at Pway. Most of the lines are outstanding, climbing high quality rock with a bit of height thrown in. There is potential for some outstanding new problems as well.
I've been doing some trail work and cleaning in this area, so it's a bit better to navigate right now. More traffic would certainly help. Bring a brush and scrub something!