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Devil's Den Bouldering

Select Route:
A Moment Of Light 
Advantageous 
Aretascious 
Arete To Arete 
Ashes To Ashes 
Bad Apple, The 
Big Ocean, The 
Doing The Dew 
Feeling For The Heavens (aka Slow and Pooky) 
Hug, The 
Individual Medley 
Leave It to Beaver 
Numb Thumb 
Pretty Bloc Swag 
Red 
Red Devil 
Red Right Hand aka Spitting Blood 
Scala 
Surreptitious 
Throng 
Tisk, Tisk 
Tradster 
Universal Socket (aka The Pocket Problem) 
Up in Smoke 

Devil's Den Bouldering  


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Administrators: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: BDalhaus on Apr 11, 2007
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Description 

Scattered around the base of the Devil's Den cliffband are a collection of boulders that vary in size from puny to house sized. For the most part, the bouldering was developed in the late 90's and, aside from the classics, hasn't seen much attention since. As a result, most of the easier and less popular climbs have been slowly reclaimed by the moss and lichen. The ice storm a few years ago dropped numerous trees as well, further keeping people away from the problems in the talus and away from the trail. Regardless, there are a handful of problems here that should be on everyone's must do list - that is, if you can climb V7 and keep a cool head up high.

Where Am I Going? 

Follow the trail from Boulder Natural towards North Mountain which is well marked and easy to follow. In less than 5 minutes the first boulder (The Premiere) is visible on the left. The Walrus is up the hill behind it, although it is best reached from further up the trail. Continue on the trail to the Dust Boulder and more, all on the left below the cliff.

Climbing Season



Weather station 7.5 miles from here

24 Total Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',3],['V2-3',2],['V4-5',5],['V6-7',8],['V8-9',5],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',1],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Devil's Den Bouldering:
Tradster   V0+ 4+     Boulder, 15'   
Feeling For The Heavens (aka Slow and Pooky)   V4- 6B     Boulder, 18'   
Throng   V5 6C     Boulder, 8'   
The Hug   V5+ 6C+     Boulder, 10'   
Individual Medley   V6 7A     Boulder, 18'   
Red Right Hand aka Spitting Blood   V6 7A     Boulder, 13'   
Universal Socket (aka The Pocket Problem)   V6 7A     Boulder, 18'   
Up in Smoke   V7 7A+     Boulder   
The Big Ocean   V7 7A+     Boulder   
Red   V7 7A+     Boulder   
A Moment Of Light   V7-8 7B     Boulder, 20'   
Numb Thumb   V8 7B     Boulder   
Leave It to Beaver   V8 7B     Boulder, 15'   
Red Devil   V8 7B     Boulder, 10'   
Browse More Classics in Devil's Den Bouldering

Featured Route For Devil's Den Bouldering
Mike pulls the roof on a cold December day.

The Big Ocean V7 7A+  NH : Pawtuckaway : Devil's Den Bouldering
Start left hand on the heavily chalked hold to the right of the asshole and right hand out on the edge of the roof, jump up to get the right foot on. Slap out on slopers, place the left foot and heel hook to the edge of the roof. The crux is pulling up onto the face. Top out and descend as for "Red"...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Comments on Devil's Den Bouldering Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 19, 2014
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Sep 27, 2009
I came to check this area out the other day, I was heavily disappointed, there are downed trees all over the place, lichen covering almost everything, there is good potential, but it need some serious TLC.
By GarrettM
From: bedford, nh
Mar 3, 2010
ill agree matt spent an hour looking for something worth sessioning and only found a horizontal crack with a terrible landing. not worth the walk
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Mar 3, 2010
An area like this doesn't see that much traffic because the grades keep the crowds away (mostly v5 and up). Because of this bouldering here feels and looks like everthing is an fa. Lose the guide, grab a brush and a 12 pack and you'll find some good stuff. Check out the routes on the cliff too, some awesome stuff, some WIDE too. Nice.
By BDalhaus
Administrator
From: Manchester, NH
Mar 17, 2010
If you're seeking problems that are below V5, I'll agree, it's probably not worth the walk. Most of the problems in the guide were first climbed at least a decade ago and haven't been touched since. However, the problems that are still clean are the ones that are really worth climbing, most of which happen to be V6 or V7 and tall. The only horizontal crack I can think of is a hard V9.
By Noah Doherty
From: Nashua, NH
Nov 25, 2012
What is the hard face climb directly to the left of Red? It starts on two full two pad crimps, crosses to a bad two finger gastone, hits a half pad crimp, then hits the upper red good hold and finishes up the arete.
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Aug 25, 2013
Noah--

Super late answer to your question. But, I just saw it!

The problem you're describing is called 'The Big Crimp'. Not exactly sure on the grade. Felt like v5, maybe v6, to me. But that was in terrible conditions.

Hope that helps!
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Aug 28, 2013
Does anybody know what the (decomposing) 'Walrus' goes at grade wise? I know the rock quality is a little sub par but I feel like this is one of the coolest look lines I've seen at Pway. Looks like it's been getting a lot of love lately.

Also, I have to say, this might be my favorite area at Pway. Most of the lines are outstanding, climbing high quality rock with a bit of height thrown in. There is potential for some outstanding new problems as well.

I've been doing some trail work and cleaning in this area, so it's a bit better to navigate right now. More traffic would certainly help. Bring a brush and scrub something!
By JamieRe
From: Providence, RI
Sep 5, 2014
Hey would it make sense to split up the problems by boulder at this point? It seems like there is enough here to warrant it. Also with the "out of print" nature of Kemple's guide peeps will be looking here for beta more and more.
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Sep 9, 2014
Most of the boulders in this area don't necessarily have individual names so that makes it a little tricky. Perhaps with Kemple's guidebook out of print, someone will finally put together a guidebook that New England deserves with accurate information, names and grades and with plenty more problems listed. Maybe I'll have to step up! Though I've already got two guidebooks to finish before I can start another one...
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 17, 2014
Bryce just needs to officially publish his amazing and comprehensive "underground" guide book.. its all in there
By Lanky
From: Portland, ME
Sep 18, 2014
You can order it on the webternets: pawtuckawayclimbing.us/
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Sep 18, 2014
"Bryce just needs to officially publish his amazing and comprehensive "underground" guide book.. its all in there"-Lee

Not all. I was a little disappointed that that he did not look in the Akashic Record and find all the names and grades of the routes I and my friends put up in area 51 and forgot about, or more of the later ones. I was really looking forward to refreshing my memory. I also would have liked a little more detailed information about Magic Woods, but I appreciate the attempt to keep some of the mystery in parts of the area. The use of difficulty symbols lifted from skiing also refreshingly didn't overly focus on on grading minutia. That may leave some people feeling disoriented though. I did like the well done photos and overview maps. They are inspiring and should get you around easily. It is a big improvement over the old guide. Thanks for publishing it.

I still have to figure out how he makes his kind of maps. I want to do some like that for Rumney boulders, but also make some overview ones where you can hover over a boulder and a small photo of it pops up. Click on it and it would take you to the MP page.
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Sep 19, 2014
Mark, if you look at Bryce's book and its site you can see that Bryce is consistently updating the book and I know Magic Woods and Area 51 are two areas that he is still looking to update. Not having all the information at the ready like the more often climbed areas makes it a more time consuming project. I am sure when more info comes to light Bryce will continue his hard work and update it.