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Devil's Den

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Devil's Den  


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Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: mr. mystery on May 22, 2011
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Description 

Devils Den in New Durham, NH is composed of 4 main cliff areas ranging from 40-75 feet. The area also draws attention from many hikers. The area offers a variety of hiking trails as well as "The Devils Den Cave". The top of the crag provides great views of Lake Winnipesaukee and the surrounding mountains. There are signs of previous local climbers who have left anchors on old trad routes and a few mixed routes. The den saw the bulk of its development in 2008.

The Cave Wall was probably the first wall developed at The Den. It offers a few questionable trad routes.Up and [climbers]right of this wall is another 20+ foot wall which has some good easy routes and some bouldering opportunites.
The Slab Wall is the most popular wall at The Den due to its height and moderate classic steep slab climbs. This wall also ices up in the winter and make for several nice ice climbs.
The Land of Overhangs is characterized by its steep climbing with mixed roof systems. It offers wild and exciting moves on good rock.
Between the Land of Overhangs and the Outback Wall are outcrops offering a variety of short climbs.
The Outback Wall has numerous technical steep sport and mixed routes. This wall has excellent rock quality with a beautiful setting. This wall also holds many of the area classics.

I also want to thank all the locals who have put in a lot of time and effort at THE DEN.

Getting There 

To get to Devils Den from the South: From Route 16 north and take Exit 15 "Lake Winnipesaukee". Follow Route 11 northwest to the Alton Traffic Circle. Head straight through getting on Route 28 north. Take Drew Hill Road on the right just after the Alton Flats. Take a left onto Hayes Road. Turn right past a gate 100 feet after the pavement ends (marked by ATV signs). Follow this Class 6 road (cars can make it!) veering left at a fork, follow for 1.5 miles to a pullout on the right with 2 good sized cairns. Park and walk uphill on a logging road for 4 minutes. The road will lead you to the base of the slab wall and the cave wall will be to your right. (There are many pulloffs on the way in if you choose to walk. A bike is also a nice fast way to get there.)

From the North: Take Route 16 south to Ossipee. Turn right onto Route 28 south just before the stop light. Follow Route 28 through Wolfeboro. Turn left onto Drew Hill Road a couple miles after it turns back to highway. Take a left onto Hayes Road. Turn right past a gate 100 feet after the pavement ends.[marked by ATV signs] Follow this Class 6 road (cars can make it!) veering left at a fork, follow for 1.5 miles to a pullout on the right with 2 good sized cairns. Park and walk uphill on a logging road for 4 minutes. The road will lead you to the base of the slab wall and the cave wall will be to your right. (There are many pulloffs on the way in if you choose to walk. A bike is also a nice fast way to get there.)

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.5 miles from here

66 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',12],['2 Stars',20],['1 Star',31],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',5],['5.7',7],['5.8',10],['5.9',16],['5.10',11],['5.11',8],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',2],['V2-3',3],['V4-5',2],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Devil's Den :
Chinos' Warmup   V5 6C     Boulder, 50'   The Outback Wall
24   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Sport, 35'   The Outcrops
People of the Sun   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Sport, 40'   The Slab Wall
Joy Ride   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, Sport, 70'   The Slab Wall
Cloak + Dagger   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Sport, 60'   The Slab Wall
Hellraiser   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 55'   The Slab Wall
The Edge   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Sport, 40'   The Outback Wall
Hole in the Roof   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 65'   The Land of Overhangs
Fools Gold   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   The Land of Overhangs
Syd's Slab   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, Sport   The Slab Wall
Chino's Arete   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   The Outback Wall
Stolen   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 50'   The Slab Wall
Visual - Eyes   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 35'   The Outback Wall
Go-Go Gadget Arm   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 50'   The Land of Overhangs
Secret Agent   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 40'   The Outback Wall
Hidden Treasure   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, Sport, 45'   The Outback Wall
People Under the Stairs   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 50'   The Land of Overhangs
Hysteria   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   The Land of Overhangs
Snus'in   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   The Outback Wall
Devil Man   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 45'   The Outback Wall
Browse More Classics in Devil's Den

Featured Route For Devil's Den
Jay on Hysteria

Hysteria 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a  NH : New Durham Area (South of ... : ... : The Land of Overhangs
Starting at small prow of rock below right of prominent flake pull on with a high hand. The route goes right up the stripe of lighter color rock between the routes on either side. A little sideways movement on this route unlocks sequences through the continuously sporty moves separated by some decent holds to catch your breath. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Photos of Devil's Den Slideshow Add Photo
Jon Garlough and Jay Denver encounter a friendly deer leaving The Den
Jon Garlough and Jay Denver encounter a friendly d...
Cave wall from the trial from the slabs
Cave wall from the trial from the slabs
Meg at the start of the "Devils Den" cave.  From here the fissure goes back horizontally for 30-40 feet, then escape is made by ascending a 14' +/- ladder.  One can also exit by continuing left at the ladder, chimneying up towards daylight, and then popping out of a smallish hole atop a sizable drop off. <br /> <br />Headlamp or flashlight recommended for your first time exploring the cave.
Meg at the start of the "Devils Den" cave. From h...
Devils Den Overview
BETA PHOTO: Devils Den Overview
night climbs
night climbs
The main slab wall in good conditions. Feb. 20, 2008
BETA PHOTO: The main slab wall in good conditions. Feb. 20, 20...
Lincoln, Jim and Jon at the outback wall.
Lincoln, Jim and Jon at the outback wall.
Here is a kindergarten drawing of the overveiw of the den
BETA PHOTO: Here is a kindergarten drawing of the overveiw of ...
base of the land of overhangs
base of the land of overhangs
the entrance to the cave
the entrance to the cave
Meaghan ascends the ladder to escape the Devils Den cave.  The ladder, maybe 14 feet tall, is wedged in a tight confine and most people climb it with their back on the opposite wall to stabilize the "wobble."  Above the ladder, a couple easy scrambling moves lead to the top.
Meaghan ascends the ladder to escape the Devils De...
 cloak and dagger.
cloak and dagger.
Taken from above the cave.Routes from right to left,Cave Corner,Unknown 4,Unknown 2.
BETA PHOTO: Taken from above the cave.Routes from right to lef...
the slab wall  <br />
the slab wall
Nice sunset on the hills of New Durham
Nice sunset on the hills of New Durham
Meaghan top ropes one of the routes on the Outback wall, Devils Den.
Meaghan top ropes one of the routes on the Outback...
Bouldering
Bouldering

Comments on Devil's Den Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 14, 2011
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
May 8, 2009
I was flipping through the routes here, and noticed a discrepancy in terminology. A lot of the routes here say they are sport but require gear, these should be listed as trad climbs so people do not get lured in and end up getting hurt. Hope this doesn't come across as offensive.
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
May 8, 2009
Wow, tons of routes. Great effort guys. I'll have to check out these climbs. Room for more development?
By mr. mystery
May 8, 2009
No offense taken Matt. I was hoping to call some of them "mixed" routes seeing as how it is mostly fixed gear. hopefully the site will have a "mixed" designation at some point. I will change them though i do agree, we dont want to get anyone hurt. Thanks for your input we want to make this page as accurate as possible.
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
May 8, 2009
Thanks shane glad you were understanding, I am really excited to check it out sometime, do you have any favorite routes?
By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
May 8, 2009
hey shane just ta let ya know alot of trad climbs actually have bolts on them :) i just found that out the other day actually :) so you dont need to feel bad calling them trad climbs. trad doesnt refure (sp check?) to only placing gear it short for traditional.. which you probably know but even back in the day ( which was a wednesday) they would bolt stuff where there was no placements for gear so the route would go :) so go ahead and call em trad without fear :) ....side note.... all this info was courtesy of lee hansche :) good teacher :)
By mr. mystery
May 9, 2009
my personal favorite routes are Stolen and Hellraiser both pretty tech steep slab climbs[5.9ish] on very good rock. On the outback cliff Secret agent[5.10b] is a great short climb and also Devil man [5.11d] may be "the" hard route for the Den. This place is definatley worth a look.
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
May 11, 2009
Ground up? On rappel? Power drills/hand drills? What's the predominent ethic there. I'm game for whatever, I think a friend of mine, casey, went out and climbed with some of you guys there one afternoon.
By mr. mystery
May 11, 2009
The bolts that i know of, have been placed on rappel. Some by hand and some with a power drill.There might be a line or two put up this year on the lead but so far not yet. Yeah he did climb in the area with us a few weeks ago.
By Lincoln
May 11, 2009
Alot of bouldering potential.
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
May 11, 2009
That is good to know I have been on a bouldering kick so iy gives me another reason to get out there
By Ben Slavin
Aug 9, 2009
Checked out this area for the first time this weekend. Awesome rock with some great routes already set up and cleaned. Thanks everyone who made this possible.
By EDGE
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 4, 2010
I just ran across these descriptions yesterday for the first time; now I can finally put names to the development that I have been watching up at the Den.

A few notes for historical perspective:

I currently live in New Durham and have for the last 17 years. Much prior to that (1970's) I lived in Middleton and used to ride my bike to the Den to top rope and scramble.

Around 1978 I led an all gear route up the middle of the slab wall, but can't remember where exactly. Probably in the vicinity of your "Cloak and Dagger" or "Joyride." It was a bit run-out, definitely a no fall zone. I seem to remember threading a crystal that spanned a holizontal as pro about halfway up, but that very well may be gone now.

My daughter and I top roped "Secret Agent" and "Another Syd Route" right after they were scrubbed and after a couple practice burns I soloed "Secret Agent." This was before the bolts appeared; sorry, I really didn't think it would get bolted. On a subsequent trip Meg worked "Devil Man" for about 20 minutes, but we left due to cold and darkness, and she has yet to make it back to send; again, this was right after the bolts sprang up.

When we first noticed the bolts on "Syd's Slab," Meaghan started up with a rack of sport draws only and finished it (!) without any supplemental gear; she was 16 at the time! Realistically one additional bolt would help prevent someone else from making this mistake.

Three years ago I led a group from the school I was teaching at to explore the cave; it was a pigsty. We spent about 2 hours hauling out huge amounts of broken bottles, cans, candle stubs, cigarette butts, paper, and the remains of the old ladder. I realize that this is likely not climber related, but it would be nice if subsequent groups did the same from time to time to help keep it clean and make good impressions on the landowner, whoever that is.

I never personally bolted anything there because I was too lazy to check into landowner status. Who is it anyway?

By joshua corbett
From: Wolfeboro NH
Mar 9, 2010
Jon let me know i live 15 minutes away from the den i will certainly help out. Also on the trash note their is a shit ton of broken glass by the slabs so i would not recommend walking around with bare feet.
By joshua corbett
From: Wolfeboro NH
Apr 12, 2010
A big thank you goes out to Jon and Jim for cleaning out the den.It looks great keep up the good work.
By joshua corbett
From: Wolfeboro NH
Apr 26, 2010
GPS coordinates N43 30.832 W71 10.227
By patrick donahue
From: Gunnison, Colorado
Oct 11, 2010
hey guys

so i was out at the outback wall on friday and i saw a new route that it bolted just climbers right of jedi mind tricks. its on the arete/right corner. i was wondering what climb this is and/or if it is an open project. anyways i was wondering if you could give me some bata on it like anchor, grade, ect.

thanks
pat
By alpineclimb
From: Stratham, NH
Oct 14, 2010
Any info on the Ice routes? I'm looking for place closer to the seacoast as this is where I now reside!
By joshua corbett
From: Wolfeboro NH
Oct 14, 2010
There is a little bit of ice here,the slab wall ices up nicely
By jimmi jazz
From: new durham nh
Oct 14, 2010
To tell you the truth the ice out there is weird,Its thin at the bottom and big up top.If you can find the bolts down low clip them because you aren't getting any screws in till about half way up. It's a great place to tr. if you want to check out some ice, then let me know sometime an I will show you where we ice climb around the new durham, wolfeboro area.
By Ryan Goslin
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 14, 2011
found shoes today near the slab area. send me a pm with the description so i can get them back to you