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Devil's Cabana Boy 

YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c

Type:  Sport, 5 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Kurt Smith and Ned Harris
Page Views: 1,749
Submitted By: Dane Casterson on Feb 1, 2008

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On-sighting the amazing 2nd pitch of "Devil's...


NOTE: I have only done the first pitch so please hijack this description if you have done more. Pitch 1 has a little bit of everything and is solid mid-11. It begins up large tufas and goes over a roof then up to a rather delicate slab finish (crux). This was likely my favorite single pitch during my week in Potrero. The second pitch looks brilliant and goes up the "tufa chandelier" at 12+. The rest goes at hard 12 or low 13.


This route starts toward the left side of the outrage wall just right of the old miner's cave. You will be belaying in really red dirt which was unique to this route.


11 or so draws.

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Feb 1, 2008

2nd pitch is one of the best pitches I have ever climbed.
A little soft but really sick climbing.
By yevquest
From: Southeast,US
Mar 24, 2009

I agree with the above poster. Second pitch is stunning, one of the best sport routes I've ever done. Guidebook lists it at 12d which seemed a little generous. Probably normal Potrero 12c.
By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jan 15, 2010

As mentioned above the second pitch is amazing. Get on it if you climb at the grade. From the belay move right making some powerful moves pulling the small roof. Above this the line serpentines on easier climbing before the crux on powerful crimps and slopers. Once you reach the tufa system, the main difficulties are over and you can enjoy the fantastic tufa climbing up the slightly overhung wall. At the next roof traverse right on powerful moves underclinging the tufa chandeliers. Finally pull a final hard move in the right facing dihedral section leading to the belay. Amazing Pitch! It is long around a 100ft so best to use a 70m, I believe the pitch had around 10 or 11 bolts. I'd guess the grade to be at 12c as well.

I didn't get on it but the third pitch is rated 12c and looks good but I've heard it could use some cleaning and isn't as classic as the second pitch.
Feb 17, 2010

Pitch 1 might be the best pitch of 5.11 climbing in the Potrero.