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Devil's Cabana Boy 

YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c

Type:  Sport, 5 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Kurt Smith and Ned Harris
Page Views: 2,173
Submitted By: Dane Casterson on Feb 1, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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On-sighting the amazing 2nd pitch of "Devil's...


NOTE: I have only done the first pitch so please hijack this description if you have done more. Pitch 1 has a little bit of everything and is solid mid-11. It begins up large tufas and goes over a roof then up to a rather delicate slab finish (crux). This was likely my favorite single pitch during my week in Potrero. The second pitch looks brilliant and goes up the "tufa chandelier" at 12+. The rest goes at hard 12 or low 13.


This route starts toward the left side of the outrage wall just right of the old miner's cave. You will be belaying in really red dirt which was unique to this route.


11 or so draws.

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Feb 1, 2008

2nd pitch is one of the best pitches I have ever climbed.
A little soft but really sick climbing.
By yevquest
From: Southeast,US
Mar 24, 2009

I agree with the above poster. Second pitch is stunning, one of the best sport routes I've ever done. Guidebook lists it at 12d which seemed a little generous. Probably normal Potrero 12c.
By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jan 15, 2010

As mentioned above the second pitch is amazing. Get on it if you climb at the grade. From the belay move right making some powerful moves pulling the small roof. Above this the line serpentines on easier climbing before the crux on powerful crimps and slopers. Once you reach the tufa system, the main difficulties are over and you can enjoy the fantastic tufa climbing up the slightly overhung wall. At the next roof traverse right on powerful moves underclinging the tufa chandeliers. Finally pull a final hard move in the right facing dihedral section leading to the belay. Amazing Pitch! It is long around a 100ft so best to use a 70m, I believe the pitch had around 10 or 11 bolts. I'd guess the grade to be at 12c as well.

I didn't get on it but the third pitch is rated 12c and looks good but I've heard it could use some cleaning and isn't as classic as the second pitch.
Feb 17, 2010

Pitch 1 might be the best pitch of 5.11 climbing in the Potrero.
By Jack Sparrow
From: denver, co
Dec 24, 2014
rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b

The second pitch of this route has to be one of the greatest climbs on earth. The movement is outrageously cool, be thinking epic flags and drop knees with huge tufas and underclings. Crux near the belay and a redpoint crux exiting the tufa chandelier. The exposure is heroic on this as well. It's a lot like celestial omnibus only more tufas and longer. The only downside to this route is some of the tufas are a little dirty. I don't think this pitch gets climbed much which is unfortunate because it's probably one of the best pitches in the potrero.
By BrianWS
Jan 19, 2015

P1 is super quality, technical tufa and slab climbing.

P2 is wild. Hard moves down low (12a/b) and relatively chill climbing through the amazing tufas. One more hard move through an odd flake feature gets you to the anchors.

The quality of this route may be very weather dependent. One of the main tufas was covered in moss and running water, adding considerably to the spice factor. Also, the bolts are in strange condition. Many look fairly rusted, and others have had layers of mineral growing over them -- they look like they've been "melted" into the wall itself and are difficult to assess.

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