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Slatanic Area
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Devil's Advocate T 
South of Heaven S 
Witch Hunt T 

Devil's Advocate 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: V. Stiefel & H. Harris, 2003
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 426
Submitted By: Vernon Stiefel on May 4, 2003

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At the top of the offwidth section. The tips crack...

Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route begins just left of Witch Hunt in an obvious vertical offwidth (10-). At the top of the offwidth the low angle crack veers slightly left and narrows to tips (9). Higher up the tips crack becomes steeper and angles right towards a ledge underneath a small overhang (10+). An intermittent 2" wide rail is 2' above the crack. The crux (11-) is a difficult stem / reach move, from where the tips crack and rail end, to the ledge (Slightly runout but bomber TCU's are 5' behind you).

I removed A LOT of "potato chip" flakes from the faces on either side of the tips crack (solid) enroute to the top. The route quality would improve with more

Protection 

Many small pieces including brass, small stoppers,and #00 - #2 TCU's plus a couple of 3.5 - 4" cams. The climb ends 90' from the ground on a ledge with a small oak tree which can be slung. Small - medium cams work well to supplement the anchor. From the ledge climb 15' to the top of Witch Hunt and rappel off of a one bolt (5/8") anchor (two ropes to the ground OR rappel to the two bolt anchor at the top of South of Heaven and then to the ground.


Photos of Devil's Advocate Slideshow Add Photo
Photo by H. Harris, 05/04/03
BETA PHOTO: Photo by H. Harris, 05/04/03
The crack at the start is two stars but the loose ...
The crack at the start is two stars but the loose ...

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