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Bob Culp leading on a 1980 ascent of the DeVille I...
This is an awesome moderate. This classic route is a bit obscure but well worth the time off the beaten track. Get permission/sign in at the Cheley Camp office. 20-25 minute approach. Pleasant walk. Can be done in 2 60m pitches or traditionally 4 pitches.
P1 can start left of a groove/wide crack. Traverse right into a crack. Go up past a natural thread. You can reach a ledge at about 120'. Continue up through a bulge that is easier than it looks. Save the #4 Camalot for just below this bulge. Then, left to the top of a pillar at 190'.
P2. From here, follow the path of least resistance that meanders up and right direction through big holds. Crux move is through a little bulge. A perfect #11 BD wire protects the crux move. The moves ease off as you finish this 200' pitch. The "5.7" finish to the left is less obvious.
Exit. Cross the gap between this pillar and the main cliff to walk off right. 2 hour route. Way fun.
Light rack to #4 Camalot works.
Larry following on DeVille III, and view towards s...
I'm cleaning the gear as the third man in the part...
|By Charles Vernon|
From: Florence, AZ
Dec 29, 2001
Additional beta: see my comments on the Deville Three rock page for how to get to the base of Deville Three pinnacle. This route can be started in any number of ways. A better second (or 3rd, depending how you do it) pitch is the second pitch of Xenomorph--see that route for a description of how to link the climbs. The pitch from the top of the pillar is fun but has some hollow holds that are also the gear placements, and the climbing is pretty stiff 5.7. Definitely do the direct 5.7 finish (also described under Xenomorph).
|By S. Kimball|
Jul 15, 2003
Thanks Leo for that 3rd pitch protection beta. For years an old Kor piton protected the faceclimbing up the black wall on pitch #3. This is now gone, and I've contemplated replacing it, since it's basically the only pro on the crux section. A steeper 5.7/8 can not be found in the Estes Valley.
|By Joe Antol|
Jun 24, 2009
Spent three hours humping gear to the base of this thing today (6/25/09).
The trail to the cliffs heads off the main switch-back trail at a large, two foot cairn. Don't bother counting switch-backs; the guidebook (Gillett) is wrong. The trail to the cliffs is well marked with cairns -- until it's not. We hiked back and forth along the base of the cliffs (awesome, BTW) but could find no recognizable features. The guidebook mentions "two boulders and a dead tree". There's nothing but boulders and dead trees so that's less than useless.
Bottom line: don't attempt unless with a local who knows the approach and descent.
NB: Called the campground and they were more than gracious about access and parking. Their only request was to sign in and out.
|By Rodger Raubach|
Jul 25, 2010
A well-protected classic climb; nice sharp-edged holds on steep and exciting rock. Can be done entirely on passive gear. "Classic 5.7"
|By Rodger Raubach|
May 3, 2011
This makes a nice early season climb, especially before the Cheley Camp opens for the season. This is definitely an "old school" rock climb. Even though it isn't "R" rated, care must be taken to use the protection when available. Registration at the Camp is necessary to maintain good relations and ensure continued access.