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White Mountain Cliff
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Devil Sticks 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Liu Xi Nan, Chen Xie Wei 2/2005
Page Views: 150
Submitted By: Fred Vanden Bergh on Nov 14, 2010

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Description 

A moderate but fun start leads to a reachy overlap, then through very delicate, crimpy climbing -- it pretty easy to feel out of balance through the crux. There's a pretty tough clip amid the thin edges and pockets, then on to fun but still full-value climbing up to the shared anchor (with Stone Dog, 10c).


Location 

Move right from the main area you first get to at the crag, up through the bolders, and about another 10m. Above you will be 2 routes, the left is Devil Sticks, the right is Stone Dog, 10c. This route climbs the ledge, easy section up to the hueco'd overlap, then into the thin side-pulls, etc.


Protection 

Bolts to a shared 2 bolt fixed anchor.



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