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Disappearing Devil
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Devil May Care 

Devil May Care 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Steve Bartlett, Fran Bagenal
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 560
Submitted By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett on Sep 1, 2003
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first ascent pic, taken by Fran Bagenal

Description 

Devil May Care is a short (70') but high quality face climb. USDA prime Wingate the whole way. A rarity, a desert face climb with natural gear. Long approach, but cool route and cool location. Start the climb on the (shorter) west side from an obvious shoulder. Mantel up and left, step right, up a brief dihedral to a ledge. Continue pretty much straight up, passing good but scattered placements in pockets and horizontal cracks. The third large band is the crux. The moves here are harder for those much under five-foot-ten. Once committed, a fall would not be very long, but would probably involve an ankle-biting ledge. Gets easier above here. Nice summit, with great views out over Moab.


Protection 

Two sets of cams from 1/2" to #4 Camalot. One #4.5, and possibly one #5. (#4.5 is especially helpful). No nuts. The gear is is in pockets or in horizontals. Several quickdraws and maybe a half-dozen shoulder-length slings. Double ropes were used on the first ascent, and help prevent rope drag. There are two bolts on top (1/2" by 4") for the 70' rappel descent.

2014 EDIT: The Camalot sizes above are the older sizes.



Photos of Devil May Care Slideshow Add Photo
Disappearing Devil from the south. Devil May Care takes the sunny face.
BETA PHOTO: Disappearing Devil from the south. Devil May Care ...
Jake Warren following the Disappearing Devil.  Great face climbing between the horizontal breaks!
Jake Warren following the Disappearing Devil. Gre...
Comments on Devil May Care Add Comment
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By Ben Kiessel
Apr 28, 2008

Nice lead Crusher! Brad and I climbed this last weekend and were impressed with the routes quality. We had one rope and many runners, which worked but doubles would have been nice. I could reach the holds on the crux but Brad couldn't. He had to jump to a pocket and hope it was good to make the move. Great route!
Ben

By Geoff Unger
From: Moab, UT
Dec 16, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b R

I really enjoyed this route. We had just done the Disappearing Angel via Satan's Revenge and didn't have a larger cam. Although the climbing was much more reasonable on this tower, one number 4 camalot would have made things a little more comfortable. Instead, I used a couple of smaller cams in shallow horizontals(not ideal). Overall awesome face climbing.

By J. Hickok
Mar 8, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b R

Short but fun!