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Devil in Disguise 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 25'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Greg Hand & Kent Lugbill 11/15/06
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 509
Submitted By: Greg Hand on Nov 15, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: The route.
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Description 

Although short, this climb has good moves on steep rock. Follow laybacks past 3 bolts to the anchors. The crux is at the 3rd bolt. Climb this first and then lower to the ledge at the start of Angel of Mercy and do that climb.


Location 

It is left of Angel of Mercy. This can be approached from the base of Angel of Mercy or by traversing in from the top of the cliff from left of the climb. The traverse is easy, but it is probably not "dog friendly".


Protection 

3 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. A #3 Friend can be used for the belay at the base of the climb.



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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 11, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

Great holds at somewhat less than ideal angles. Climbs like a steep route- too bad it is a pain to get to the base and too bad its only 20' long... 5X longer would make it a sought-after classic.

By Jay Eggleston
From: Littleton
Apr 28, 2013

This looks a lot harder from the ground than it really is.