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Hackberry Wash Wall
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Deviant Chimney S,TR 
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Deviant Chimney 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: M. Kindred
Page Views: 956
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Oct 22, 2005

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Perin Blanchard just above the second bolt. Photo ...

Hackberry Wash Wall is closed March 15 to June 1.

Description 

Tapering sandstone chimney formed by a huge detached block leaning against the wall. The start is 20 feet or so above the valley floor; easy scrambling gets you there.

Slightly too wide and angled at the bottom to bridge, the route starts with a move or two of face climbing, then bridging as the chimney narrows. Fairly strenuous right at the top due to the restricted width (but not difficult).

If you top out with your back on the detached block (the natural position) the anchor bolts will be behind you.

Although "only" a 5.4 in difficulty the route is a fun change from face and crack climbing and is always in the shade (except for perhaps a few minutes a day in the winter).

Protection 

3 bolts to 2-bolt anchor. Slings or draws needed for top rope. Bolts are on wall, anchor is on leaning block.


Photos of Deviant Chimney Slideshow Add Photo
Looking straight up Deviant Chimney. Note that the anchor is on the opposite side from the lead bolts. Photo by Perin Blanchard.
Looking straight up Deviant Chimney. Note that the...
Looking southwest (more-or-less) from the bottom of Deviant Chimney. Note the long-suffering, non-climbing wife reading a book in the shade of the large boulder (the boulder mentioned in the directions to Hackberry Wash Wall). Photo by Perin Blanchard.
Looking southwest (more-or-less) from the bottom o...

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