Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Snowshed Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aerial 
Alvin's Route (TR) 
Bell Bottom Blues 
Bottomless Topless 
Brain Child 
Bypass 
Cannibals 
Composure 
Conform or Be Cast Out 
Crack of the Eighties 
Devaluation 
Devaluation Direct 
Disciples Of the New Wave 
Farewell to Arms 
Hair and Now 
Hair Lip 
Hair Shirt 
Jam Session 
Karl's Gym 
Little Feat 
Manic Depression 
Missing Mind 
Molar Concentration 
Mole's Corner 
Monkey Paws 
Night Country 
Nova Express 
Palsy 
Pan Galactic Gargle Blaster 
Panic in Detroit 
Pea Soup 
Peter Principle 
Pump Lust 
Rage Reduction 
Rapid Transit 
Rick and Eric's 
Sanitation Crack 
Side Effect 
Split Pea 
Telegraph Crack 
Thing, The 
Two Fingers Gold 
Unknown (5.10d) 
Unknown 5.7 
Welcome to My Nightmare 

Devaluation Direct 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 757
Submitted By: Tony B on Sep 28, 2003
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Description 

This is the single-most obvious line from the parking area. The crack runes the full length of the main wall (30M tall) and goes up a slot down low, past some crack and some left-facing corners, past a huge death block 50' up. The block is avoided via reaching the corner/handcrack on the right of it. Continue on easy terrain (5.5?) to the top, where a few hexes and nuts (cams OK too) build a solid TR anchor.

The beginning is awkward and is not for the novice trad leader. A bit of a sandbag as well, given 5.9+ by the book.

To descend, Walk to climbers right to some bolt anchors, or over the top to a loose gully.


Protection 

Standard Rack including cams from tiny to 4" and a set of nuts + optional tricams. Heavy on the TCU's. You can set a TR from gear up top, but with a 60M rope, it will require attention to get both ends down.There is some difficulty placing gear in a few sections.



Comments on Devaluation Direct Add Comment
Show which comments
By 426
Mar 8, 2007

Can also start this route just right and up the "gully" to make it into a 5.9 with good pro.

I know at least one person who pulled their gear and cratered on the 10a R start, so watch yerself if you decide to go that route.

By Willoughby
Jul 13, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

WARNING!!! - Spoiler gear beta ahead!!!!


If you happen to have a #5 friend, there's a perfect spot for it right off the deck. A #4 is a touch too small for that spot, but can go right where you need a crucial fist, but with that #5 you get great pro and still get to use that fist jam...perfect! Not "R" at all in my opinion.

By Joe Ludlow
From: Denver, Colorado
Jun 21, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

It really isn't a R. Honestly, I wouldn't even call it PG13. Solid pro the whole way where you need it. Just be careful where you're placing it. If there is a shallow crack manky crack, don't place a cam in it. A #4 and then a .3 C4 placed high into a deep pocket at the top of the crack protected the whole thing beautifully.

However as I said before, you have to be careful because I wouldn't doubt for a second that a lot of what's there will spit out pro in a heart beat.

By Laine
From: Reno, NV
Jul 14, 2010

Definitely doesn't deserve an R rating

By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Sep 22, 2010

I'd give it PG13. The second piece wasn't very inspiring given the rock quality. It's definitely an awkward start, but I liked the variety of technique you can employ getting through it.

By Spandex
From: East Bay, CA
Jul 4, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

I give it three stars because of the direct start in the squeeze - absolutely amazing. It will make you think, hopefully. Left side in with a little chicken winging and a #3 or #4 up high in the squeeze: in my opinion, a quality crux. The next piece I placed was a yellow #2 mastercam a foot above the top of the squeeze. Definitely not R though some of the rock quality made me question my placements. The obvious left-facing corner protects well with .75-2 BD but beware of shallow placements. Higher up takes a variety of gear and you can also walk a #3 and #4.

Much better than the easier, right start variation if you are willing to try a little harder in the beginning.

By J. Hickok
Aug 16, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

Old school 5.9 that feels like 10a, but NOT runout.