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Alvin's Route (TR) 
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Devaluation Direct 
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Devaluation Direct 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 759
Submitted By: Tony B on Sep 28, 2003
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This is the single-most obvious line from the parking area. The crack runes the full length of the main wall (30M tall) and goes up a slot down low, past some crack and some left-facing corners, past a huge death block 50' up. The block is avoided via reaching the corner/handcrack on the right of it. Continue on easy terrain (5.5?) to the top, where a few hexes and nuts (cams OK too) build a solid TR anchor.

The beginning is awkward and is not for the novice trad leader. A bit of a sandbag as well, given 5.9+ by the book.

To descend, Walk to climbers right to some bolt anchors, or over the top to a loose gully.


Standard Rack including cams from tiny to 4" and a set of nuts + optional tricams. Heavy on the TCU's. You can set a TR from gear up top, but with a 60M rope, it will require attention to get both ends down.There is some difficulty placing gear in a few sections.

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By 426
Mar 8, 2007

Can also start this route just right and up the "gully" to make it into a 5.9 with good pro.

I know at least one person who pulled their gear and cratered on the 10a R start, so watch yerself if you decide to go that route.

By Willoughby
Jul 13, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

WARNING!!! - Spoiler gear beta ahead!!!!

If you happen to have a #5 friend, there's a perfect spot for it right off the deck. A #4 is a touch too small for that spot, but can go right where you need a crucial fist, but with that #5 you get great pro and still get to use that fist jam...perfect! Not "R" at all in my opinion.

By Joe Ludlow
From: Denver, Colorado
Jun 21, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

It really isn't a R. Honestly, I wouldn't even call it PG13. Solid pro the whole way where you need it. Just be careful where you're placing it. If there is a shallow crack manky crack, don't place a cam in it. A #4 and then a .3 C4 placed high into a deep pocket at the top of the crack protected the whole thing beautifully.

However as I said before, you have to be careful because I wouldn't doubt for a second that a lot of what's there will spit out pro in a heart beat.

By Laine
From: Reno, NV
Jul 14, 2010

Definitely doesn't deserve an R rating

By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Sep 22, 2010

I'd give it PG13. The second piece wasn't very inspiring given the rock quality. It's definitely an awkward start, but I liked the variety of technique you can employ getting through it.

By Spandex
From: East Bay, CA
Jul 4, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

I give it three stars because of the direct start in the squeeze - absolutely amazing. It will make you think, hopefully. Left side in with a little chicken winging and a #3 or #4 up high in the squeeze: in my opinion, a quality crux. The next piece I placed was a yellow #2 mastercam a foot above the top of the squeeze. Definitely not R though some of the rock quality made me question my placements. The obvious left-facing corner protects well with .75-2 BD but beware of shallow placements. Higher up takes a variety of gear and you can also walk a #3 and #4.

Much better than the easier, right start variation if you are willing to try a little harder in the beginning.

By J. Hickok
Aug 16, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

Old school 5.9 that feels like 10a, but NOT runout.