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Wild Card 

Deuces Wild 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 145'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Richard Wright, Fall 1997.
Page Views: 6,073
Submitted By: Shaun Miller on Jan 1, 2001
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (142)
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Approaching the headwall on P2. Photo by Paul Rezu...

Description 

Pitch 1: The route begins hard. The crux is after you clip the first bolt. Continue up past the small roof (fun!) and up to the anchors.

Pitch 2: Climb a slab with positive holds everywhere. Fun and not too hard. A variation can be made at the last clip if you go to the left, making it "10ish." Otherwise it's a great way to finish this climb to the right of the last bolt. 135 feet to the ground.

This route can be one pitch with 18 QDs and two ropes. You MUST have a 60m rope to rappel with just one rope, otherwise bring two 50m ropes.


Protection 

Pitch 1: 7 bolts with two anchor bolts for the belay. Pitch 2: 10 bolts with two anchor bolts for the belay.


Location 

Addendum: This route is located to the left of Via Comatose Amigo. It is on the middle buttress of rock to the left of the gully between Road Rash Roof & Jackpot.



Photos of Deuces Wild Slideshow Add Photo
Erik Marr climbing just right of the 1st belay on Dueces Wild.
Erik Marr climbing just right of the 1st belay on ...
Dan analyzes the easy overhang.
Dan analyzes the easy overhang.
Second pitch of Deuces Wild.
Second pitch of Deuces Wild.
On the crux of the first pitch.
On the crux of the first pitch.
Under the roof on the first pitch.  (Photo by Joan Wharton)
Under the roof on the first pitch. (Photo by Joan...
Pulling the roof on the first pitch of Deuces Wild.
Pulling the roof on the first pitch of Deuces Wild...
Midway up.
Midway up.
Matt charging up DW, Fia guarding base.
Matt charging up DW, Fia guarding base.
Finishing up the second pitch.
Finishing up the second pitch.
Jimmy at top of route, Justin belaying at midpoint.
Jimmy at top of route, Justin belaying at midpoint...
Above the ceiling on P1, about to make the awkward move into the groove.
Above the ceiling on P1, about to make the awkward...
Dan makes the easy pull on the huge holds.
Dan makes the easy pull on the huge holds.
Comments on Deuces Wild Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 10, 2013
By Michael Komarnitsky
Founding Father
From: Seattle, WA
Jan 1, 2001

This first pitch is beautiful I thought, clean strong moves above pro that make you think, but not enough to really screw yourself up. The first three or four moves off the ledge are kind of balancy - a fall here could be quite painful.

By Derek Lawrence
From: Bailey
Jan 1, 2001
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Way Fun Route with cool exposure at the top - but the mid-point belay does not seem to be in line with the natural line of holds. I found myself making way thin moves left to reach the belay. I was able to protect this with a small Friend, but without gear I would have been sketched. I'd recommend doing it as 1 long pitch.

By Ben Mottinger
Founding Father
Jan 1, 2001

Just an update on the fixed pins on the roof. There is now only one angle in the roof, which is really not necessary--a yellow alien fits just above. The other pin is lower in the dihedral before the roof and the eyes are smashed halfway closed anyway.

By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 5, 2001

I tried to climb at Clear Creek yesterday using only the beta from this website (the first time I've ever tried to do that!). This sounded like one of the best routes at High Wire, but unfortunately this description doesn't even give a hint for where the route is!

By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Sep 5, 2001

Charles, Two thoughts. I'll try to get the numbering organized. Also, some of us like to call this sector the Queen City Slab to differentiate it from High Wire proper that is on the other side of the road and hosts, amongst others, the Highwire route.

By Bryson Slothower
Mar 29, 2002

Linking the pitches makes for a very enjoyable long lead with 17 bolts.

By Anonymous Coward
Jun 24, 2002

Climbed this on Sunday - I agree that you should string the pitches together! My climbing partner was dying on that first belay, then I was dying waiting for her to rappel down to me! Also, I'm not sure even a 70m rope would get you to the ground on rappel from the top belay! Tie 2 ropes together or rap to the first belay. Be careful pulling your rope, too - our got stuck on a horn on the way down! Great climbing, though! Bring about 20 draws - it's long!

By Jason Carter
From: Monument, CO
Feb 18, 2003

The joy of this climb is its length. I've always thought the mid point two bolt anchor was just there as a rap station anyway. Maybe because I've never been able/wanted to climb to the anchor directly as it sits lurking at you from a blank spot on the wall, anyway, it seems way left of the route and low as a mid point belay - even out of reach to clip as you climb past. It's a little run out climbing past it on the right, but I don't think dangerous.

Really nice face climbing to finish - all in all a great route for the grade. Climb it in one, rap it in two.

By Ben Ryan
Jul 11, 2003

If you don't have enough draws to make it all the way to th top in one. I found the best way to get to those sketchy anchors is to climb up past them and then traverse over on the desent ledge. It's pretty easy but also kinda sketchy.

By Michael J Yarros
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 12, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Great route. We climbed it as one pitch. Better bring a lot of "Draws" :)

I thought the section right below the top (second anchor) was the hardest part of the 2nd pitch.

By SurlyClimber
Mar 6, 2006

Pitch 1 goes at harder than a Clear Creek 10a, at least compared to other climbs of that grade in the Canyon (e.g. Ace in the Hole, Jellicle Cats, MacCavity). I would say the pitch 1 crux is getting to the anchors. To make the anchors you have to traverse left from a good stance across a face with little in the way of hands or feet. The section between the first and second bolt at the start of the pitch is balancy, but at least there are holds, particlarly if you stay left of the bolts. If you are doing both pitches you might want to just skip the first pitch anchor.

By jay baichi
Mar 9, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

There is loose block midway on pitch 2. Be careful not to use it as a hold.

By adrenalated
From: Thornton, CO
Aug 31, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Agree the anchors for P1 are in a fairly silly spot. Moving them 3' to the right would put them more in line with the natural holds, still at a relatively convenient place to belay from, and still line the rope up well. The bolts are looking old anyway... maybe it's time for someone to move them?

By Adam Berger
Oct 30, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

I've always done this climb as one pitch, and usually traverse over to the mid-point anchors, clip a draw, and keep going. Yesterday I brought a few small cams and placed a 0.5 C4 in the crack to the right of the anchors and kept going up. I traversed over slightly higher up and felt like it was a much more natural line. Just my 2 cents.

By Bjorn
From: Near Joshua Tree
May 1, 2009

Considering the heavy star-rating in Darren's book, I thought this route was rather a shitpile. One 10ish move right off the ground followed by a ropelength of blase climbing. Do it as one pitch to minimize time wasted on the affair, or don't do it at all. Via Comatose is much better.

By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Sep 19, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

I'm gonna have to completely disagree with bjorn, I think this is a great route with very good rock. Doing this in one pitch is highly recomended.

As Adam mentioned, you can bring a couple mid-sized cams (or just run it out) and continue straight up the crack, then traverse back left higher up and avoid the pesky mid anchor fiasco.

Yes, the climbing eases greatly in the middle, but the climbing is still of high quality, and one of my favorite moderate long pitches in the canyon.
Cheers

By Josh
From: Golden, CO
Oct 5, 2009

A loose block below the small roof on P1 is marked. If you avoid it, it makes your final moves to the anchor a fun and balancy step-across. It is out of the way of the rope line, so still relatively safe to climb underneath and past it.

By Buff Johnson
Oct 25, 2009

It's a fun route, maybe they can't all be Topo Ocean crimp & friction fests, Bjorn, but so what; the last section gives a good set of moderate moves to finish out.

By sstrauss
From: Denver
Mar 21, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

FYI: a 70m will not reach the bottom. You either have to downclimb a few feet or tie 2 or rap twice; worth the time spent though.

By Julius Beres
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 28, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Well, since someone just posted that a 70m won't make it, I figured I will add some more info. I just led it in one pitch, and there is no way to TR it with a 70m and the rope going through the draws, so I belayed from the top. I then rapped the cleaned route. I clipped into the second bolt while undoing the knots in the end and seeing how far it would go down. It almost reached the ground and I could grab a good hand hold and make the last step down. Also, if you extend your rap device with a shoulder length sling, you could make it down on my rope without even having to grab the rock to step down. Of course, not all 70m ropes are really the same length and it was really right on the edge of my rope, so be careful and safe.

By Top Rope Hero
From: Was Estes Park, now homeless
Apr 26, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

SHAMELESS SPOILER BETA: The opening moves can be done by grabbing the obvious crimps and humping up and rightward...which it looks like most everyone does, judging by the chalk...but I think that steals the show and comes in at 9 or 9+.

Didn't see the real 10a move until I was up and over it, but start on the same crimpers and do your best Micheal Jordan reach to a seam way left and high. Gorgeous.

By Hiro
From: Boulder, CO
May 21, 2012

Did this today, as a 2-pitch route to practice our multi-pitch skills (belay from above, trailing a rope, communication, double rope rap, etc.). P1 anchors are in such an awkward position - my leader chose to go to the bolts above and lower to the anchor (it's a runout on easy terrain). This is partially caused by the marked foothold below the overhang which leads up to the anchor.

Suggest you do the route as one pitch to avoid our situation; the group behind us was doing this. The route itself has a fun variety of climbing (1 star for doing this as a 2-pitch, 3 stars as one pitch). Watch your rope length for doing it at as single pitch (I dunno what you need to go up). We came down to the ground on a double rope rap on a 60m+70m.

Side note - I did have a smallish C4 (0.75) and Friend (1.5) with me, there are places to place it near the P1 anchor if you wish to play around with getting to that anchor or protect the runout.

By ChefMattThaner
From: Lakewood, co
Oct 13, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Glad to see that everyone agrees the first set of anchors is in a terrible spot. I simply climbed past them and clipped the draw above them. This is a little run out but on fairly easy terrain. Wished I would have brought gear, because looks like a #0.5 Camalot would have been a perfect option to protect that small run out section. Definitely climb it in 1 pitch, and simply rap down to the first anchors and finish from there. Very fun climbing, and IMO the crux is getting from bolt #1 to #2 that requires a nice reach.

By Bruce Hildenbrand
Dec 10, 2013

In October, Dale Haas and I added quicklinks and rappel rings to the anchor on the first pitch. The hardware for this work was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association (www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support.