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St Patrick's Buttress
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Destiny 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: P R Littlejohn, C A G Morton, 2nd April 1972
Page Views: 25
Submitted By: CrimperE6 on Oct 30, 2012

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tuffett

Description 

The rightward-slanting crackline in the headwall. Protection is excellent and the climbing is sustained. Considered by Littlejohn to be his proudest crack climb at the time, and the hardest route on the island!

P1, 29m, 4b.
Starting directly beneath the left end of the crack, climb a groove (some suspect rock) then the slab above to a good belay beneath the crack. Often omitted, especially at high tide by abseiling in direct to this stance.

P2, 30m, 5c.
This is the main event! Set off up the slab aiming for the obvious crack. The angle steepens higher up and the difficulties don't let up. Follow the crack to it's end and move up on a good undercut to an easing at a sloping ledge. Finish more easily up the short corner to the right.

Protection 

A full rack of cams (doubles in thin hands) will make your lead a bit easier.


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