This is a short, 2 pitch route on the east face. Scramble up a gully between The Chair and The Knight. Go up a wide crack on the left (just left of Blues for Allah & just right of a line of 6 bolts) that narrows up to a ledge. Fire up past 3 bolts to a sling belay, back it up with a #2.5 Friend. Go through a slot, then boulder up, past 3 old bolts, lieback to a squeeze chimney. There are some old 1/4" bolts to the right of the chimney. Rap 80' off the back off bolts.
Just left of Blues for Allah and right of a 6 bolt line, there is a wide crack that narrows down on the East Face of The Chair.
To a #4 Camalot.
Greg is at the top of the 2nd (short) pitch, above...
|By Jeremy Hakes|
From: Golden, Colorado
Sep 24, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13
We did the upper pitch from the Suntan ledge. Some of the bolts have been removed/chopped. We found one bolt on the climber's right hand side near several chopped bolts, and one bolt on the climber's left about 20' up. We gave up on this miserable climb and lowered off the top bolt. There is a crack to the climber's left that will accept a blindly placed nut.
Jun 10, 2011
Did this one linked with the 5.8 start from the ground back in '96. Pleasant route. The last pitch had 2 old bolts/ hangers. Suntan Ledge was an interesting stop Our party being 3 climbers I chose to follow last, as my buddies took off for Dest Unknown thru a short hole /tunnel.
Waiting, I spied a brand new # 3 Camalot in the crack between the ledge and the wall. It was 'bout 6 ft down inside. So, tied off my nut key to some rope slack and went fishing. It was upright and tipped out. I'd get it hooked and slowly work it up to almost grabbing distance when the Rock Gods started playing with me. Seemed like an eternity then, slipping off my nut key and dropping back down, 8 times!
My buddies were now at the next belay and yelling for me. On the last attempt, it came up real close and as I reached down to grab it. Plink!
Off it went flipping over falling deeper into the crack never to be retrieved again. I was pissed, all that work. Fired myself thru the tunnel up the 9 straight into the o/w chimney thing for the last pitch. Still pissed. Topped out set the belay to a darkening sky.
#2 partner 'cleaning' the pitch was cursing all the way "F#*k, I hate offwidths!!" He was a relatively small guy and I the bigger of us. I yelled down "just move slow inch up, stack your feet, throw an armbar in and your good to go". I was laughing now released from my own personal angst of losing some free gear. He went so deep into the crack, I lost sight of him. Guess he was just too small a build for this one.
The look on his face was priceless when topped out. Our 3rd came up and we had a good laugh on the top and raced down the rappel at the first crack of thunder/lightning.
The route is enjoyable and recommended.
|By George Bracksieck|
Jan 3, 2013
After leading the thin crack of "Toot Suite" (using some clean aid) in July 1972, we tunneled right, through some boulders and reached the last pitch of what is now known as "Destination Unknown." Then I led the chimney/offwidth, hand-placing a four-inch bong endwise, for pro. We had no hammer. There were no bolts.