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 ADVANCED
Carderock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beginner's Crack TR 
Beginner's Face TR 
Biceps TR 
Billy Goat Boulder 
Buckets of blood (overhang) 
Buckets of Blood Arete TR 
Bulge, The TR 
Bump, The TR 
Butterfly TR 
Chris's Goat TR 
Copycat TR 
Crack, The T,TR 
Cripple's Crack TR 
Cripple's Face TR 
Crippling Paralysis TR 
Crystal Ship TR 
Desperation TR 
Diamond, The T,TR 
Dream Direct, The TR 
Dream, The TR 
Easy Layback TR 
Eight Ball TR 
Elsie's TR 
Elsie's Arete TR 
Elsie's Other TR 
Fingernail TR 
Flake, The TR 
Flutterby TR 
Friction Layback TR 
Golden Staircase TR 
Green Bucket TR 
Hades Heights Girdle Traverse T 
Herbie's Horror TR 
Herbie's Left TR 
Incipient TR 
Iron Cross TR 
Jam Crack TR 
Jan's Face TR 
Kindergarten TR 
Left Edge of Jane's Face TR 
Mad Dog TR 
Merv's Nerve TR 
Norris's Nipple T,TR 
Nose, The TR 
Nubbin (Nubble) Face TR 
Outlook Rock Boulder 
Pre-Kindergarten Boulder T 
Rack, The T,TR 
Ronnie's Leap TR 
Serenity Syndrome TR 
Shipley's TR 
Silver Spot TR 
Spider Walk TR 
Sterling's Crack TR 
Sterling's Double Cracks TR 
Swayback Layback TR 
Tea and Scrumpet 
Top Roping at Carderock with Tots TR 
Triple A TR 
Trudie's Terror TR 
Yellow Jacket TR 
Zig Zag TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Desperation 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 441
Submitted By: Victor K on Jun 4, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: The "Green Bucket" is just left of the leaf in the...

Description 

There are two distinct moves on this route. First get into the upper undercling (two positive slots right next to each other). Then, working your feet up above the flake, go for the crystals directly above. Don't use anything on the arete. This is a short problem, but rewarding.
A variation is to go left for the bucket of Green Bucket from the undercling.


Location 

Right of Green Bucket, before the arete.


Protection 

Toprope



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By Gilbert Mears
Jun 23, 2014

More challenging and interesting than Green Bucket just to its left. Waaayyyy harder than 5.9+, at least on a moderately toasty summer day. This felt closer to a solid 5.11. I'm sure Carderock purists would disagree, but I say if you're looking for something closer to 5.9+ use the arete. Even using it it's a tough route for its grade, especially for shorter people.