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Bug Barn Dance Wall
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Desperate Land 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Phil Reynolds and Matt Crawley
Page Views: 551
Submitted By: Christian "crisco" Burrell on Mar 12, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Three exciting roofs. (4/6/09 Photo by Perin Blan...

Description 

Surprisingly fun route to the left of Raid. I thought this route was a slight bit overrated in the Ruckman guide. But hey, .10c or d? who really knows?

The start is fun on a steep arete section and then you get the typical slab between steep steps common in the middle of Bug Barn. Quite enjoyable and not as stiff as many of the other lines here.

Protection 

9 bolts and chain anchor.

Location 

Starts on a little knoll higher than the surrounding cliff base. The third bolted line from the right on the main (southwest) face of Bug Barn.


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By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Apr 6, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I really, really liked this route (and I thought it was a bit easier than Lacy Doggie Panties, so if that one is .10c, then this one is... .10c- ?)
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Apr 7, 2009

As I said in my description, I feel like it is overrated as well. I have no problem with calling it 5.10b.
By John Ross
From: Wasatch Front, UT
Apr 7, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Each roof was a blast. I especially liked making committing moves and being rewarded by good holds above. Add to it good rock and a quiet location to really make this a classic route.
By Jon Bitter
From: Waco, Tx
May 28, 2010
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Great holds the whole way up with a few committing moves on less stellar holds to reach the next jug. fun.
By Tim Moore
May 13, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Good route. Well bolted except for the first part you have to climb with a high first bolt but after that your fine. Great belay spot with a tree to rest in. Good climbing over both roofs with the second being much harder to get over especially with poor hand holds. It is very well bolted so you never have to worry about a hard committing move. Good solid rock a little slick because it's lime stone but a classic area and a must visit for rock canyon