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 ADVANCED
Block Tower
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bungi Man T 
Dance of Chance T 
Desperado T 
Hurt Dance T 
Mister Mantle T,S 
Queer Bait T 
Sex Dwarf T 
Wrist Never Sleeps T 

Desperado 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: 1st Pitch K. Stricker and R. Woolf 02/05, 2nd pitch K. Stricker and C.Jones 2/08
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 208
Submitted By: Kevin Stricker on Jan 1, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Photo topo of Desperado.

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  • Description 

    Desperado is a two pitch variation to Queer Bait. Start as with Queer Bait but go straight up at the first bolt past a sustained 5.10+ thin section and a hard to clip bolt. Run it out 20 feet on easier 5.8 climbing to a no hands rest on a knob at another bolt. Climb back right clipping another bolt, then back left to a lunge for a jug in a horizontal break (5.11 R). Mantle and run it out another 10 feet to a right-facing flake (#1 Camalot on right side) then up to a cable anchor on a rock spike. 170 feet 5.11 R. Move belay up easy terrain to the base of the Queer Bait offwidth, place a 0.75 cam and big stopper in alcove to the right of the crack and extend the belay down to the ledge below.

    P. 2 - Climb up the left face of the QB's OW, starting about 15 feet left of the crack below several horizontal seams. Climb up through the seams, placing small Aliens, and work up to the first bolt. Make bouldery moves up and right to a second bolt, then crux moves slightly left and back right to a big jug. Place a red Alien then traverse 5 feet right to finish on the QB corner above the OW. Set up a belay on the left above the corner (medium cams, stoppers).

    Location 

    Traverse up and right to the far right side of the upper ledge and belay at a two chain bolt anchor (behind the block) to rappel or continue up on Queer Bait and walk off. If you rap, a single line will not get you all the way to the ground, but it is easy to down climb the last 30 feet down a gravelly groove.

    Protection 

    SR to 3 inches, with a double set of Aliens.


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    By Kevin Stricker
    From: Evergreen, CO
    Jan 1, 2010

    If you're not interested in 5.11 runouts, you can traverse right at the fourth bolt to finish with the top of Queer Bait's first pitch. This option is 5.11 (10R).

    This route avoids all of the groveling on Queer Bait and lets you climb the Block Tower with a light rack. The rock quality and climbing is three stars, but its contrived nature knocks it down a notch.