Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Northern End
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bedside Manner T 
Beer Float, The T 
Desperado T 
Great Googlie Moogli T 
Rodeo Crack T 
Route 66 T 
Salad Daze T 
Shasta T 
Sleepy Hallow T 
T-Handles T 
Talkin' It Clean T 
Usual Suspects T 
Where's Noah Vibbert T 
Wiggle Room, The T 

Desperado 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Trevor Bowman and Bryan Schmitz 7/09
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 740
Submitted By: Trevor Bowman on Sep 7, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: The final bit of crack can't be seen in this photo...

Seasonal Raptor Closure starts Jan 15 each year; No top access - private land MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This was one of the northern end's final "potential" lines listed in the last edition of Wenger's guide. The neighboring lines to the right and left had also been "potential" but were also plucked recently. In keeping with the area's tradition, this was led on-sight ground up.
The bottom half of the pitch is great 5.9 hands and fingers to a small shelf on the column face to the left. From there, make progressively harder moves up the tightening fingercrack until it pinches down for a bit, forcing some creative stemming and crimping to a small upper shelf. Continue a short ways on good fingers to a set of anchors recently installed by Jeff Wenger. A great outing-harder than most of the north side climbs and pretty lichen-free.

Location 

On the northern side of the crag. One corner left of a newer climb "Ol' Dirty Bastard" and one right of another new line "Buried Alive".

Protection 

Cams through #2 BD with doubles of finger size, small stoppers for crux. Chain anchors.


Photos of Desperado Slideshow Add Photo
Trevor leading through the crux on the FA.
Trevor leading through the crux on the FA.

Comments on Desperado Add Comment
Show which comments
By phillip
Sep 13, 2009

Nice work, Trevor!

Just one tiny correction: The route to the right is called "Ol' Dirty Bastard". May he rest in peace. WU-TANG FOREVER!
By Trevor Bowman
From: Sheridan, WY
Sep 15, 2009

Thanks Phillip... noted and corrected...no disrespect intended to ODB...
Oh yeah, what's the name for the 5.9+ one right of Ol' Dirty?
By phillip
Sep 16, 2009

The line right of ODB is Talkin' It Clean (5.9+). This was the original Jeff Wenger line and has the anchor that both Desperado and ODB finish on. Pretty full-value "5.9"!
By Bickle
Oct 8, 2009

Jeff put an anchor on top of desperado so now you do not need to traverse to the talking it clean anchor.
By Trevor Bowman
From: Sheridan, WY
Oct 12, 2009

Good to hear...props to Jeff for the addition...hopefully it'll encourage people to get on it!