Desperado 5.10b
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a/b [details] |
| FA: | Ed Palen and Bob Starinsky, August, 2002 |
| Submitted By: | Chris Duca on May 28, 2009 |
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Lindsay Duca in the midst of the stemming madness....
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Description Sandbagged?--You be the judge.
Start by climbing up on good holds into the steep open book. Get your stemming legs primed, and tackle this sustained section of climbing passing two pins and two bolts. (Some say clipping the 2nd and 3rd bolt are a bit cruxy.)
Milk a good rest after exiting right around the corner, then continue up the large right-facing corner until it is possible to step left and finish through steep holds to the tree anchor.
Location About 20' right of the large corner of "Spacec Cowboy", below a large open book that starts roughly 12 feet up.
Protection A standard rack.
Nearing the end of the sustained open book.
Photo...
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The last few, hard moves of the puzzling open book...
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By Greg Kuchyt
Aug 8, 2011
rating: 5.10-
| Interesting climb. One of those "one way makes it feel 10-, every other way makes it feel way harder" type of climbs. Getting to the first bolt is unnerving in my mind, you are a ways above the second piton which doesn't look inspiring. The clip at the second bolt shouldn't be hard unless you are panicking trying to clip it out of the intended stance. |
By Nick Weinberg
From: Albany, NY
Nov 21, 2011
| Not as good as it looked. I think I did it the "way hard" way. |
By Jim Lawyer
Administrator
Nov 21, 2011
| GK - I think you mean the second bolt, not the third. There are only two bolts on this route. |
By Greg Kuchyt
Nov 21, 2011
rating: 5.10-
| Jim,
Thanks, you are right. I amended that in my comment. I must have had a brain fart when I wrote that. |
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