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 ADVANCED
Main Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bandito T 
Bozeman Bullet T 
Desperado T,S 
Drifter T 
Geronimo T,S 
Good, The Bad, and The Ugly, The T 
Space Cowboy T 
Sundance T 
Tombstone T 
Warpath T 

Desperado 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Ed Palen and Bob Starinsky, August, 2002
Page Views: 882
Submitted By: Chris Duca on May 28, 2009

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Lindsay Duca in the midst of the stemming madness....

Description 

Sandbagged?--You be the judge.

Start by climbing up on good holds into the steep open book. Get your stemming legs primed, and tackle this sustained section of climbing passing two pins and two bolts. (Some say clipping the 2nd and 3rd bolt are a bit cruxy.)

Milk a good rest after exiting right around the corner, then continue up the large right-facing corner until it is possible to step left and finish through steep holds to the tree anchor.

Location 

About 20' right of the large corner of "Space Cowboy", below a large open book that starts roughly 12 feet up.

Protection 

A standard rack.


Photos of Desperado Slideshow Add Photo
Nearing the end of the sustained open book.  Photo...
Nearing the end of the sustained open book. Photo...
The last few, hard moves of the puzzling open book...
The last few, hard moves of the puzzling open book...

Comments on Desperado Add Comment
Show which comments
By Greg Kuchyt
From: Richmond, VT
Aug 8, 2011
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Interesting climb. One of those "one way makes it feel 10-, every other way makes it feel way harder" type of climbs. Getting to the first bolt is unnerving in my mind, you are a ways above the second piton which doesn't look inspiring. The clip at the second bolt shouldn't be hard unless you are panicking trying to clip it out of the intended stance.
By Nick Weinberg
From: Essex, NY
Nov 21, 2011

Not as enjoyable as I hoped it would be from the ground!!! I think I did it the "way hard" way.
By Jim Lawyer
Administrator
Nov 21, 2011

GK - I think you mean the second bolt, not the third. There are only two bolts on this route.
By Greg Kuchyt
From: Richmond, VT
Nov 21, 2011
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Jim,
Thanks, you are right. I amended that in my comment. I must have had a brain fart when I wrote that.