Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Ronin's Corner
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Daydream Believer T 
Desperado T 
Dreams of Passion S 
Magical Child T 
MCM T 
Ridge Runner T,S 
Sammy's Frog S 
Sky Dancing S 
Wobbler T 

Desperado 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Robin Barley and C. Murrell, 1980
Page Views: 209
Submitted By: Peter Spindloe on Jan 20, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Desperado is a prominent left diagonaling feature between Wobbler and the corner of Magical Child. The name is appropriate: the angled nature of the feature and the smooth wall below conspire to have you placing pro from strenuous stances with your left foot smearing. The pro is in oddly shaped and poorly oriented cracks so while it requires care to place well you don't have luxury of hanging out forever. I sprinted through it and got quite pumped.

The cobwebs seemed to indicate that it wasn't popular, probably because it couldn't be top-roped easily and it's a solid lead for the grade.


Protection 

Mostly small to medium nuts and finger sized cams. A couple of larger cams (#1 or #2 camalot) for where it joins Wobbler.



Comments on Desperado Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jon Stein
From: North Vancouver, BC
Sep 3, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

This is a great climb to do if you are in the area. I have only Top Roped it before and found that the rope drag and bolts for the anchor can be a bit confusing. I always throw the rope down climbers left of the small tree by the bolts and this seems to work well. Be prepared to have some rope scraping over somewhat sketchy rock if you are taking some falls on it. Please protect yourselves and your ropes and only climb this one on TR if you know you can climb the grade.

By Hans
From: North Vancouver, BC
Mar 27, 2013

Not so sure about the PG13 rating. This takes bomber gear.