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Daydream Believer 
Desperado 
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Wobbler 

Desperado 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Robin Barley and C. Murrell, 1980
Page Views: 205
Submitted By: Peter Spindloe on Jan 20, 2007
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Description 

Desperado is a prominent left diagonaling feature between Wobbler and the corner of Magical Child. The name is appropriate: the angled nature of the feature and the smooth wall below conspire to have you placing pro from strenuous stances with your left foot smearing. The pro is in oddly shaped and poorly oriented cracks so while it requires care to place well you don't have luxury of hanging out forever. I sprinted through it and got quite pumped.

The cobwebs seemed to indicate that it wasn't popular, probably because it couldn't be top-roped easily and it's a solid lead for the grade.


Protection 

Mostly small to medium nuts and finger sized cams. A couple of larger cams (#1 or #2 camalot) for where it joins Wobbler.



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By Jon Stein
From: North Vancouver, BC
Sep 3, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b PG13

This is a great climb to do if you are in the area. I have only Top Roped it before and found that the rope drag and bolts for the anchor can be a bit confusing. I always throw the rope down climbers left of the small tree by the bolts and this seems to work well. Be prepared to have some rope scraping over somewhat sketchy rock if you are taking some falls on it. Please protect yourselves and your ropes and only climb this one on TR if you know you can climb the grade.

By Hans
From: North Vancouver, BC
Mar 27, 2013

Not so sure about the PG13 rating. This takes bomber gear.