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Desperado 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jim Boone & Ellen Dempsey, 1979
Page Views: 493
Submitted By: Woody Stark on Dec 20, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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BETA PHOTO: "Desperado".
Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

Just left of the large cleft in the face, you will see a bolt about fifteen feet above. Climb to the bolt and continue up cracks to the top. Finish right of the summit block.I found this to be quite an enjoyable route.


Protection 

Standard rack with one bolt (1/2") at the start.



Photos of Desperado Slideshow Add Photo
The original bolt gone bad
The original bolt gone bad
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By tom donnelly
Dec 1, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

good route. Old bolt as of 11/2008, but not critical.

By Bob Gaines
Jan 8, 2010

Kevin Powell and I replaced the old 1/4 inch bolt today with a 1/2 inch diameter stainless.

Found two new 3/8 inch bolts at the top that could be used for a rap anchor (although they need rings or chains). A 70 meter rope would work nicely here.

By Gary Schmidt
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 21, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

thought this was a fun thought provoking route. Bring a few smaller to medium cams to supplement the bolts. Hardest move is getting over the small roof bulge before the final crack to the summit. Have fun!

By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Jan 19, 2014

A good but not great route on somewhat uninspiring rock. Pro is pretty good until you really need it, then it is thin and behind a suspect flake. A couple of iffy moves get you onto easier ground and then a small slap in the face near the top. Bring some small cams and wires as a supplement to whatever your standard rack might be.
I can't imagine there is any 5.10 move on this thing, but being above the small pro will add a letter grade or two if that is the way you roll.

By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Jan 19, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Route is pretty straight forward.... fairly easy ground to clip first bolt (bomber thanks to BG & KP which shortly after gets you to two beautiful twin cracks. After the twin cracks peter out and atop a block is a thin flake protectable with small gear and/or nuts. Not great as the flake is pseudo thin and idea of bombing down beyond the block not that inspiring. Thin enough you (like me) may be thinking twice about the small traverse move climbers right to gain access to a clean hand crack. This crack too will peter out on a ledge which is basically the horizontal band that splits the formation. Good, solid gear found here. This quite likely is the crux of the route as gaining access to the crack above to protect takes a bit of thought but can be reached and protected high from the shelf/stance above the horizontal break the route eases, gear available. Protect and stay primarily in the right crack but you may find some comfort and cool features using the left too. Exit climbers right of large summit block. Block provides for gear if you have anything large left 3" or the final summit which is 1.5 -3".

The route is pretty pretty easy to read but does wander some from one crack system to the next. It's long, so drag would be....well, a drag. I agree with Gary in that it is thought provoking. Crux was giving me sweaty hands thinking I'd need to pull over the bulge with the piece tucked in the horizontal (bomber), was pretty happy when I was able to sneak a #1 cam in from the high-stance.

Another route description with "standard rack". YMMV but you likely won't be disappointed with several long runners, small gear including .25" cams and nuts, several hand size pieces and don't skimp on the 4" stuff either. Anchor takes anywhere from 1" to 3.5" depending on what you have left.