|373 page views|
Good page? (1 like)
|Type: ||Trad, Mixed, 4 pitches, 800'|
|Consensus: ||M6 [details]|
|FA: ||Steve House and Hayden Kennedy |
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Winter |
|Submitted By: ||Hayden Kennedy on Feb 14, 2013|
Midway up second pitch.
Desperado is a fairly serious outing, but choss-hounds will love it. Each pitch has some run-outs, bad rock, and bad gear. Warning - on the top of pitch 3 the anchor is terrible and should get re-placed. There is one bolt and a gnarly blade in garbage rock. The climbing is pretty darn fun and is a perfect San Juan winter adventure!
P1. Go up easy mixed climbing and, depending on conditions, even some good ice up a corner through a small roof. (M5) Belay on good ledge with solid cams.
P2. Go up good mixed climbing (M5 R) up small corner to open face. Choose your own adventure on this pitch as there are a few options. Head for the obvious ledge bellow shallow chimney/groove. There are two bolts at anchor.
P3. Climb through a short but steep section off the belay trending right (M6) towards the obvious groove. Grovel your way up this awkward groove to the belay (M6 R).
P4. This is short and sweet. Climb steep M6 R terrain through a roof to easy climbing to top of wall. Belay on a solid tree.
Rappel the route with two 60 meter ropes.
There are two obvious steep grooves left of The Ribbon. Desperado climbs the leftmost system to the top of the wall. Use the same approach as The Ribbon.
Double set of cams to #3 and one #4, set of nuts, and a good amount of iron. If anyone does this route and wants to add a bolt to the third belay, please do so. It would be much safer that way.
The steep fourth pitch.
Looking up towards the third pitch groove.
|By Steve House|
5 days ago
The offending anchor was replaced with 2 good bolts in November 2013. This rig is good to go! I now think it might be closer to M7. The gear is R but not X. It is easier when there is less snow on the wall hiding the edges you'll need to use. -S. House
|By phil wortmann|
From: Colorado Springs, Co.
6 hours ago
Good to hear Steve, maybe Wellborn and I will get our courage up enough to give it another go! The lower gully looked to have some ice last weekend.