Despairadoes

Despairadoes follows the only natural line on the East Face of the Silver Turret.

The first pitch ascends the apron to a bolted belay. Start below and a bit right of the large crack/corner system which the route follows above. Climb up a shallow corner/seam and then move left crossing under the main crack/corner system above, then over and up to the belay bolts. 5.8.

Pitch two climbs up through several flaps on steepening slabs past 3 bolts to gain the corner after making a very thin traverse across the lip of an overhang. A burly stemming / lieback combination (fixed pin here) leads up the corner. Where the crack ends for a section move out left to the arete and climb up and then back to the corner. Finish up easier ground to belay under the next headwall. 5.11+. Properly organized, double rope technique will take care of rope drag on this pitch

Begin pitch three by stepping out left to a wild airy stance on a diving board ledge. Climb up to a bolt, under-cling back to the corner and bust one more hard move to gain easier ground above. Continue up easy rock to a bolted anchor. 5.11+.

Pitch four is easy. Climb up and across to an airy bolted belay which puts you in position for the crux pitch.

The fifth pitch climbs across wildly exposed moves past 2 bolts to gain the thin finger crack. Crank the thin crack to the top and hand traverse out left under the huge roof to it's end and climb up past another bolt to a bolted anchor. 5.12a. I would not want to lead this pitch without double ropes.

From here the route follows the line of least resistance up and left for several pitches to gain the summit ridge of the Silver Turret. Pitch 6 gains the upper of several diagonal cracks and follows this line up and left to a belay in a corner (One bolt serves as backup to the limited available placements). Pitch 7 turns this corner and the next and continues traversing across to another one bolt belay. Pitch 8 goes straight to the top.

Continue up the North Ridge over the top and descend the 4th class South East Ridge Route.

There is a rappel route straight to the ground from the top of the third pitch, established due to Guyzo's knee injury during our 1995 attempt. Due to the arching path of the route, descending by the line of ascent would be difficult. From the bolted anchor at the top of pitch 3, rappel straight down to a pair of bolts at a hanging stance, and then from there to the ground. Two 60m ropes. Getting off from any point higher will require going over the top or getting back to the top of the third pitch.

There is a section of relatively easy alpine style rock to climb after the crux of pitch three which is a bit loose. Other than that the rock on this climb is clean, solid and beautiful.

Double rope technique is helpful on this route.

1 set of stoppers. #1-#10 rocks or equivalent. Double up on #1-#5

A few tiny wires - depending on how you choose to protect the crux.

1 set of cams, from small tcu's through 3 inches. Double up on tcu's to 1/2"

The usual runners and quickdraws. P2 has the most bolts, but no more than 5.

About the fixed gear:

A variety of different types of bolts were used during the ascent of this route. On the first three pitches 5/16 x 1 1/4 rawl buttonheads were placed by hand in 1994 (Other bolts identical to these which I have placed in other areas at about the same time are holding up well and so I would expect these to be good.) The bolts on the upper five pitches are 3/8" 5 piece from 1996. The single bolt belays high up on the route have gear placements as well. At the time I thought the gear was either tricky or limited in such a way that the back up bolt was a good idea.

The difficult lie-back/stemming combination on the second pitch when you first get across to the corner is protected by a fixed pin. This pin placed very soundly in 1994. Failure of this pin would probably not be catastrophic as there is a bolt not too far behind on the slab and reasonable gear placements are reached not too far above. If anyone wants to replace this pin with a bolt have at it.

Use your own judgement when trusting this fixed gear. We placed it well, using quality hard-wear, but this stuff has been exposed to the elements since 1995/97. It could be advisable to have a bolt kit available for emergencies.