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Way Rambo
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A Tale of Two Sheep 
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Desire 
Expendables 1 
Expendables 2 
First Blood 
Fuzz 
Good Times 
Grindhouse 
Host, The 
Hostess, The 
Inhabitants, The 
Layaway Plan 
Layoff plan 
Monk, The 
Renegades of Funk 
Rochambeau 
Serrator Crack 
Slice and Dice 
Unnamed 
Way Nutter 
Way Rambo 
Wishbone Suspension 

Desire 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: unknown
Season: spring/fall
Page Views: 2,490
Submitted By: Gavin Ferguson on May 30, 2006
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Short, sweet and wide!

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Description 

Desire is an offset OW that lends itself to your left side in. You can get a couple of good rests out right of the crack with your feet. Near the top you enter a large cavity and chimney up to where the anchors are located. There is a loose looking hold I "didn't grab" to pull onto the slab to clip the chains.


Location 

Desire is located a short distance to the right of "Layaway Plan" and to the left of "Slice and Dice". You can see the anchors up on the slab to the right of the crack.


Protection 

3=#5 friends, 3=#6 friends; There are two biners on the anchor to clip



Photos of Desire Slideshow Add Photo
Unstuck Knee
Unstuck Knee
Found at the base in '04...  <br /> <br />(A 5.10 named Desire?)
Found at the base in '04...

(A 5.10 named Desire...
Desire 5.10 OW
Desire 5.10 OW
Nearing the chimney top out of "Desire"
Nearing the chimney top out of "Desire"
kubes on Desire
kubes on Desire
Comments on Desire Add Comment
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By James Beissel
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 26, 2006

This is a great route to practice hand/fist stacking technique.

Once you get up about 15' the crack becomes wide enough to get your knee in. The first 10' are really the crux #4 (purple) Camalot. After that it is #4.5 (red) Camalot or #5 C4. Cruiser! Two are enough if you walk them, three would be perfect and four would probably be overkill. Bring a #2 Camalot to protect the final chimney moves to the anchor.

By JoergB
From: Germany
Oct 14, 2009

Really nice training offwidth. The knee is good jamming nearly all the time, hand-fist stack and arm bar work both. Difficult is only the steeper lower part, when this ends it becomes easy. One #5 was enough for me, more gear just gets in the way.

By Jamie Henrichsen
From: Lake Morena, CA
Apr 23, 2012

Knee stuck in "Desire"
Knee stuck in "Desire"

I got my knee stuck pretty good after the pod. My pants bunched up around the knee and I cut the pants into shorts to get loose. Good hand-fist stacks and cupped out butterflies for me. Pretty tight for a knee crack on me though.

By Josh Ewing
From: Bluff, UT
Sep 30, 2012

One of the better "beginner OWs" at the Creek. 3-4 pieces in the "new 5 camalot" range and maybe one larger piece (new 6 or old 5) should be enough. Can be TR'd after rapping off of Layaway Plan.

By Dan Cillo
From: The Great State -Colorado
Sep 15, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

Super solid stacks for 70 ft. 1-#4 and 3-#5's did it for me. Once you could use a C4 #6 , it was not even worth placing.