Desire 5.10
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 95 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10 [details] |
| FA: | unknown |
| Season: | spring/fall |
| Submitted By: | Gavin Ferguson on May 30, 2006 |
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Desire 5.10 OW
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Description Desire is an offset OW that lends itself to your left side in. You can get a couple of good rests out right of the crack with your feet. Near the top you enter a large cavity and chimney up to where the anchors are located. There is a loose looking hold I "didn't grab" to pull onto the slab to clip the chains.
Location Desire is located a short distance to the right of "Layaway Plan" and to the left of "Slice and Dice". You can see the anchors up on the slab to the right of the crack.
Protection 3=#5 friends, 3=#6 friends; There are two biners on the anchor to clip
Found at the base in '04...
(A 5.10 named Desire...
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kubes on Desire
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Unstuck Knee
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Nearing the chimney top out of "Desire"
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By James Beissel
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 26, 2006
| This is a great route to practice hand/fist stacking technique.
Once you get up about 15' the crack becomes wide enough to get your knee in. The first 10' are really the crux #4 (purple) Camalot. After that it is #4.5 (red) Camalot or #5 C4. Cruiser! Two are enough if you walk them, three would be perfect and four would probably be overkill. Bring a #2 Camalot to protect the final chimney moves to the anchor. |
By JoergB
From: Germany
Oct 14, 2009
| Really nice training offwidth. The knee is good jamming nearly all the time, hand-fist stack and arm bar work both. Difficult is only the steeper lower part, when this ends it becomes easy. One #5 was enough for me, more gear just gets in the way. |
By Jamie Henrichsen
From: Lake Morena, CA
Apr 23, 2012
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I got my knee stuck pretty good after the pod. My pants bunched up around the knee and I cut the pants into shorts to get loose. Good hand-fist stacks and cupped out butterflies for me. Pretty tight for a knee crack on me though. |
By Josh Ewing
From: Bluff, UT
Sep 30, 2012
| One of the better "beginner OWs" at the Creek. 3-4 pieces in the "new 5 camalot" range and maybe one larger piece (new 6 or old 5) should be enough. Can be TR'd after rapping off of Layaway Plan. |
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