Desire 5.9
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 20 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | Kevin Heckathorne |
| Submitted By: | Aron Quiter on Jul 10, 2005 |
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Justin at the second bolt of desire.
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Description This route is located on the southwest face of the grouse slab , which is a five minute hike around to the left of the main face of Grouse Slab.
From the parking area heading towards the main climbing area of Grouse Slab, this wall is uphill and to the left, and you can see the routes of the Southwest Face on the approach before going around the Slab downhill and to the right.
Once you can see the 9 routes of the Southwest Face from the PCT (this applies for approaches from both sides), head uphill for about 3 minutes on a thin trail through the manzanita bushes.
Desire is the rightmost bolted climb on the SouthWest Face. Desire makes you either desire for more climbing like the earlier routes of the wall to the left, or simply for another bolt lower to the ground, since the crux is moving up to the first bolt!
Climbing is on tiny edges on a slab through the crux, and is finished after the second bolt where it eases to the top anchor.
Protection 3 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor.
By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Sep 28, 2005
| Desire was my first real sport lead! So the name actually works. Like the above description says, the crux is below the first bolt. I actually cheated it on my first lead by stemming out to the nearby chimney that is clearly off route. It's been downhill ever since. Afterward, I TRd it and found the direct start is really not bad at all for slab. On a side note: the surrounding routes seem a little sandbagged. Enjoy! |
By Paul Rezucha
From: Alameda
Nov 21, 2005
rating: 5.9
| Desire is a fun route which is pretty well protected although I did it on toprope this time. A few thin bouldering moves off the ground (with a good landing) gets you to the first bolt. Fun facing climbing continues up to the third bolt where it does ease up to the top. |
By Brad Allender
From: Alameda, CA
Nov 21, 2005
rating: 5.9
| Great climb, lots of fun thin face moves. The first bolt is pretty high up there, and the crux is right off the ground.It is pretty far between the 2nd and 3rd bolt too, but there is a horizontal crack that can take a cam pretty nicely if you want the added comfort. It looks far from the last bolt to the anchors, but it is one move past the bolt then it eases off. |
By bergbryce
From: South Lake Tahoe, CA
Nov 5, 2009
| Don't cheat on the start! A high step w/ the left foot off a good right foot on the corner is all you need.
You can get gear between the 2nd and 3rd bolt but the ground above the crack to the 3rd bolt is easy. |
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