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The Conspiracy Crag
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Designer Genes 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio and Vaino Kodas, 4/2000
Page Views: 784
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Jan 26, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

From the left end of the crag, pick out the obvious crack that starts 20 feet off the ground, second route from the left. Tricky entry moves at 5.11 gain the base of the crack. Jam up for 30 feet or so to gain a horizontal seam and crack system. A short traverse left gains the anchor. The quality of the climbing and the stone probably warrant the three stars; however, I suspect that the three star rating of a route with bolts adjacent to perfect Friend placements will rain calumny down upon my head. Nonetheless, I found the climbing to be excellent all the way. As the FA team explained, this crag will hold 99.99 percent sport routes. If you happen to bring the trad rack, do it on gear, otherwise just dig it for what it is - superb climbing on good stone.

Protection 

Eight draws and a rope.


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By piz
Jul 7, 2002

Hey all, this is a great route with a chossy start. It is the second one from the left and has lots of hand crack climbing on great stone. 11d.
By Geoff U
From: Highlands Ranch, CO
Jan 11, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Really great movement and good jamming but sharp in places (should have taped up). Belayer should wear goggles or glasses - non stop showering of sand and lichen... also broke a foothold near bottom. Solid rock higher up.