Desiderata 5.11+
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11b/c [details] |
| FA: | D.Mabe, 2007 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Darren Mabe on Sep 10, 2008 |
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Brandon Patterson on "The Desiderata" March 2007. ...
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Description Currently the only bolted line at the Bumbling Stock. Starts in the center of the crag at a right-facing flake. Midway optional belay anchor reduces the drag. Otherwise bring a few longer draws and 60m or 70m rope. Lieback the flake, mantle onto a ramp. Steep slab smears to a cruxy arete move (10+ish). Easier climbing leads you to a right-leaning undercling corner (2nd crux) and over a small roof. Finish on steep headwall, with a last tricky highstep crux at the last bolt. Anchors are set back on a nice ledge. Lower 105' to ground. 60m rope barely makes it.
Location Almost smack dab in the middle of the crag, left of the Crack a Beer OW.
Protection 13 bolts to the chains.
Adam Peters on "The Desiderata" March 2007. Photo ...
| Brandon Patterson entering the second crux. March ...
| Brandon, through the crux March 2007, photo by Ada...
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By Tom Lekan From: Denver, CO Apr 5, 2010
| A 0.75 through 1 Camalot can be used to protect on the ramp between bolts 2 and 3. Considerably easier terrain, but 15ft runout with groundfall potential here. |
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