Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Bumbling Stock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Crack a Beer T 
Desiderata S 

Desiderata 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: D.Mabe, 2007
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,258
Submitted By: Darren Mabe on Sep 10, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Brandon Patterson on "The Desiderata", March 2007....
Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Currently this is the only bolted line at the Bumbling Stock. Start in the center of the crag at a right-facing flake. A midway optional belay anchor reduces the drag. Otherwise, bring a few longer draws and a 60m or 70m rope.

Lieback the flake, mantle onto a ramp. Steep slab smears to a cruxy arete move (10+ish). Easier climbing leads you to a right-leaning undercling corner (2nd crux) and over a small roof. Finish on steep headwall, with a last tricky highstep crux at the last bolt. The anchors are set back on a nice ledge.

Lower 105' to ground. A 60m rope barely makes it.


Location 

This is almost smack dab in the middle of the crag, left of the Crack a Beer OW.


Protection 

13 bolts to the chains.



Photos of Desiderata Slideshow Add Photo
Adam Peters on "The Desiderata", March 2007. <br /> <br />Photo by Darren Mabe.
Adam Peters on "The Desiderata", March 2007.

Phot...
Brandon Patterson entering the second crux. <br />March 2007, Photo by Adam Peters.
Brandon Patterson entering the second crux.
March ...
Brandon, through the crux <br />March 2007, photo by Adam Peters.
Brandon, through the crux
March 2007, photo by Ada...
Comments on Desiderata Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tom Lekan
From: Denver, CO
Apr 5, 2010

A #0.75 through 1 Camalot can be used to protect on the ramp between bolts 2 and 3. Considerably easier terrain, but 15ft runout with groundfall potential here.

By SteveZ
From: Denver, CO
Apr 19, 2014
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

The second half of this route is excellent. The first half is crumbly and weird. Second half is worth it I think.

By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 21, 2014

With a few pieces of gear, possibly a better entry is with the start of Crack a Beer to access the headwall.