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Bumbling Stock
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Crack a Beer T 
Desiderata S 

Desiderata 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: D.Mabe, 2007
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,341
Submitted By: Darren Mabe on Sep 10, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Brandon Patterson on "The Desiderata", M...

Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Currently this is the only bolted line at the Bumbling Stock. Start in the center of the crag at a right-facing flake. A midway optional belay anchor reduces the drag. Otherwise, bring a few longer draws and a 60m or 70m rope.

Lieback the flake, mantle onto a ramp. Steep slab smears to a cruxy arete move (10+ish). Easier climbing leads you to a right-leaning undercling corner (2nd crux) and over a small roof. Finish on steep headwall, with a last tricky highstep crux at the last bolt. The anchors are set back on a nice ledge.

Lower 105' to ground. A 60m rope barely makes it.

Location 

This is almost smack dab in the middle of the crag, left of the Crack a Beer OW.

Protection 

13 bolts to the chains.


Photos of Desiderata Slideshow Add Photo
Adam Peters on "The Desiderata", March 2...
Adam Peters on "The Desiderata", March 2...
Brandon Patterson entering the second crux. March ...
Brandon Patterson entering the second crux. March ...
Brandon, through the crux March 2007, photo by Ada...
Brandon, through the crux March 2007, photo by Ada...

Comments on Desiderata Add Comment
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By Tom Lekan
From: Denver, CO
Apr 5, 2010

A #0.75 through 1 Camalot can be used to protect on the ramp between bolts 2 and 3. Considerably easier terrain, but 15ft runout with groundfall potential here.
By SteveZ
From: Denver, CO
Apr 19, 2014
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

The second half of this route is excellent. The first half is crumbly and weird. Second half is worth it I think.
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 21, 2014

With a few pieces of gear, possibly a better entry is with the start of Crack a Beer to access the headwall.