Desert Vuarnet 

One of the best 5.11's in the creek. Lots of rests.

awesome route for sure. heavy on the throttle the whole way.

Beagle says this: Lots of rests.

Slim says this: heavy on the throttle the whole way.

Beta seems to conflict. Thoughts?

Wally

probably because beagle is tough, and i'm knot. there are a couple rests, but it felt like a pretty intense route to me, particularly at this slightly rightward traverse that is kind of spooky for some reason. good route, if you haven't done it yet you should!

(the description above says the crux is just before the anchor, but i thought the laybacking closer to the bottom was the hardest part).

is the section with the 6 1.5 friends more like the purple camelots or green camelots size?

it seems i remember the lower layback section to be a mix of purple and green, and then the top offset splitter to be a couple green and then some #2 friend and maybe getting into a red camalot. hopefully if i am off track somebody can set me straight. the crack switch wasn't really a piece of cake either, kind of awkward.

LOVED this route!! Pretty sure the FA was Steve Hong and Bob Rotert well before I started climbing... maybe mid-80s.

11+ or 12- probably dependent on hand size, like many creek routes. Definitley has stems and rest steps. Killer climbing the whole way. After the initial dihedral you get some bouldery moves to the next crack which, if I remember was splitter #1 camalot. Excellent, long pitch.

My guidebooks says you'll look pretty cool if you flash this. I onsighted it and all I got was one hell of a left arm pump!! Hang out at the rests along time, and it makes it easy

My experience of the upper crux (gear wise) was more in line with slim. 0.75 was the size I wish I'd had more of and I don't really remember wishing for a #2 camalot at all up high. As for movement beta, I'd say lots of good rests to use. (total no hands-pre crux among others)

I thought this was very similar to Quarter of a Man. But this felt at least a half letter grade easier.