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Desert Vuarnet 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 3,775
Submitted By: Bryan K. on Oct 4, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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Description 

Begin by laybacking and jamming up the small left facing corner, stemming for rests when possible. Make a corner switch and climb through a short awkward section and position yourself below the widening splitter above. Now climb a offset thin hands splitter (crux) to the anchor.


Location 

A short walk right of Scar Face, starts on a long shelf above trail.


Protection 

Friends- (2).75, (3)1.0, (6)1.5, (6)2.0, (1)2.5



Photos of Desert Vuarnet Slideshow Add Photo
Some finger pieces to get started then stellar finger stacking/thin hands through the initial dihedral
Some finger pieces to get started then stellar fin...
Digging out another .75 camalot, wishing I had more #2 friends
Digging out another .75 camalot, wishing I had mor...
One of the few remaining sandstone plaques in the area.
One of the few remaining sandstone plaques in the ...
Comments on Desert Vuarnet Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 11, 2014
By Bryan Gilmore
From: Your Mama
Nov 24, 2008

One of the best 5.11's in the creek. Lots of rests.

By slim
Administrator
May 26, 2009
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

awesome route for sure. heavy on the throttle the whole way.

By Wally
From: Denver
Oct 13, 2010

Beagle says this: Lots of rests.

Slim says this: heavy on the throttle the whole way.

Beta seems to conflict. Thoughts?

Wally

By slim
Administrator
Oct 13, 2010
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

probably because beagle is tough, and i'm knot. there are a couple rests, but it felt like a pretty intense route to me, particularly at this slightly rightward traverse that is kind of spooky for some reason. good route, if you haven't done it yet you should!

(the description above says the crux is just before the anchor, but i thought the laybacking closer to the bottom was the hardest part).

By Silvia
Oct 13, 2010

is the section with the 6 1.5 friends more like the purple camelots or green camelots size?

By slim
Administrator
Oct 13, 2010
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

it seems i remember the lower layback section to be a mix of purple and green, and then the top offset splitter to be a couple green and then some #2 friend and maybe getting into a red camalot. hopefully if i am off track somebody can set me straight. the crack switch wasn't really a piece of cake either, kind of awkward.

By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 8, 2010

LOVED this route!! Pretty sure the FA was Steve Hong and Bob Rotert well before I started climbing... maybe mid-80s.

11+ or 12- probably dependent on hand size, like many creek routes. Definitley has stems and rest steps. Killer climbing the whole way. After the initial dihedral you get some bouldery moves to the next crack which, if I remember was splitter #1 camalot. Excellent, long pitch.

By Gaar
From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Nov 23, 2010

My guidebooks says you'll look pretty cool if you flash this. I onsighted it and all I got was one hell of a left arm pump!! Hang out at the rests along time, and it makes it easy

By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Jan 2, 2011

My experience of the upper crux (gear wise) was more in line with slim. 0.75 was the size I wish I'd had more of and I don't really remember wishing for a #2 camalot at all up high. As for movement beta, I'd say lots of good rests to use. (total no hands-pre crux among others)

By GabeO
From: Denver, CO
Oct 30, 2012

I thought this was very similar to Quarter of a Man. But this felt at least a half letter grade easier.

By ben jammin
From: Moab, UT
Mar 11, 2014
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

Great route. One 70m gets you down.