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BETA PHOTO: Desert Queen Mine showing the Gold Dust area (lowe... Description Located north of the Queen Valley Road, somewhat midway between Jumbo Rocks and Sheep Pass CG, is this fairly accessible area with a remote and somewhat wild feel. Depending upon your motivation or proclivity you might climb close to the car, or venture out into one of the Park's lesser-visited areas and possibly discover some relics from the area's rich mining past. This is an area to visit if seeking solitude and quality engaging routes, of which there are many. Those seeking cracks will be rewarded with such gems as Tiers For Fears (5.10b), The Golddigger (5.10c), Petrodynamics (5.10d), Silverado (5.11b) and Nerve Storm (5.11c). Face climbing enthusiasts will want to do Once In A Lifetime (5.7), Get The Balance Right (5.10a) Times Of Holyness (5.11c), I Have The Touch (5.12b) and Cosmic Trigger (5.12d). Getting There Driving east from Sheep Pass CG, there is a right turn towards the signed Geology Tour Road; more or less directly across from this is the dirt road to the Desert Queen Mine area. Drive the dirt road, staying right when necessary, to a parking area one and a quarter miles from the paved Queen Valley Road. The trail to the various rocks lies at the east end of the parking area and winds downhill to the base of a large hillside with several sealed mineshafts. Climbing back up to a large plateau behind the mineshafts leads to a rough landscape of valleys and hills with scattered rock formations. Scattered throughout this landscape are many enticing routes. Plan on thirty to forty-five minutes to Fraggle Rock, the furthest crag from the parking area. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Desert Queen Mine:
Large and In Charge 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet Mother Lode Wall
Queen Crimson 5.10b Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet Queen Crimson Dome
Get the Balance Right 5.10b R Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet Desert Queen Dome
Mother Lode 5.10b Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Mother Lode Wall
Jolly Roger 5.10c Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet Fraggle Rock
One Pop, No Stop 5.10c Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Desert Queen Dome
Buffalo Gun 5.10+ Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet Silverado Area
Tiers for Fears 5.10d R Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Fraggle Rock
Crack (route 2911) 5.10d Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Dike Rock
Petrodynamics (aka Gigantor) 5.10d Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet Fraggle Rock
Hollowed Ground 5.11a Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Queen Crimson Dome
Fear of Music 5.11b Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet The Gold Nuggets
Silverado 5.11b Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet Silverado Area
Desert Profit 5.11d Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet Queen Crimson Dome
Nerve Storm 5.12- PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Queen Crimson Dome
I Have The Touch 5.12b Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet Fraggle Rock
Sensory Deprivation 5.12b Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet Fraggle Rock
Cosmic Trigger 5.12d Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet Fraggle Rock
Featured Route For Desert Queen Mine
 About 100' left of Tiers for Fears is this fabulous corner system with twin cracks. Lieback/jam and stem your way up the corner using both cracks to a bolted anchor at a stance.Perhaps the best gear lead on the rock, this fun climb has great moves on good rock in a quiet, remote-feeling setting. Were the climb longer perhaps it would deserve more stars. Three out of five stars....[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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