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Trad, Sport
Fixed Hardware
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FA: | Christian Griffith |
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Shared By: | Orphaned User on Oct 12, 2001 · Updates |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Rockfall Access Effect & Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Per Dustin Bergman, Eldorado Canyon State Park Officer: the upper third of the West Redgarden trail and Rewritten descent trail suffered significant damage during that storm that came through a few weeks ago. Please consider choosing alternates routes lower on the trail.
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
Desdichado is the spectacular rising traverse that follows a weakness through the beautiful overhung wall on the left side of the C’est La Vie dihedral. This historically significant classic involves some wild moves and really fun climbing.
In the early 2000’s, a key flake broke off near the 4th bolt, adding some difficult moves (cool moves though!) and bumping the grade to 13+. All the remaining holds feel solid. The old Mammut ring bolts look a bit sketchy, however they do the job. Another thing to note is the lack of good anchors. There is an old anchor a ways up the slab, but it is not very useful, making for an obligatory victory whip (or untie and solo off like Christian did). This route will eventually (or soon) need an upgrade.
Approach via C’est a Vie, Pansee Sauvage, or Le Boomerang. The route begins at the bolt anchor at the base of the open book. Follow C’est La Vie to just below (or after) the crux and break left via lots of fun moves on sloping edges past 4 bolts (fixed draws) to a tricky finish on the overhanging arete. As far as 13+’s go, the moves are not very hard, but it is very sustained.
This is an amazing and classic route, have fun!
In the early 2000’s, a key flake broke off near the 4th bolt, adding some difficult moves (cool moves though!) and bumping the grade to 13+. All the remaining holds feel solid. The old Mammut ring bolts look a bit sketchy, however they do the job. Another thing to note is the lack of good anchors. There is an old anchor a ways up the slab, but it is not very useful, making for an obligatory victory whip (or untie and solo off like Christian did). This route will eventually (or soon) need an upgrade.
Approach via C’est a Vie, Pansee Sauvage, or Le Boomerang. The route begins at the bolt anchor at the base of the open book. Follow C’est La Vie to just below (or after) the crux and break left via lots of fun moves on sloping edges past 4 bolts (fixed draws) to a tricky finish on the overhanging arete. As far as 13+’s go, the moves are not very hard, but it is very sustained.
This is an amazing and classic route, have fun!
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