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This is a small, roughly pyramid-shaped crag coming it at 1/2 rope length tall, with 6 routes packed in tightly, almost all of which are good. The moderately long approach of 20 minutes is well justified, as once you arrive you are literally just a few hundred yards from the additional dozen routes on Area 51. The rock on both crags is generally solid and well cleaned, particularly on this one. The climbing ranges from 5.3 to 5.11a, without a lead-move over 5.9+ that isn't protected by a bolt, as the harder climbs are either sport or mixed.
Drive up canyon for 4 minutes to what would be mile 29.2 for the road signs and park on one of the pullouts on either side of the road. Hike up the pant legs, put on the sandals, and walk across a shallow area of stream. Alternatively, pick & hop your way across on rocks if the water is low enough.
5 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Desdemona
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Desdemona:
The Tortoise And The Hare 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b Trad, 2 pitches, 100'
Oasis Red 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Northwest Arete 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Elanor 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
North Face 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Trad, 2 pitches, 100'
Featured Route For Desdemona
The Tortoise And The Hare 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b CO : Lyons : ... : Desdemona
This shares the same start as Oasis Red but moves right after about 25 feet, across the big ledge to the base of the left-facing dihedral. Belay here and then move up the dihedral, traversing at the top under the large boulder to the anchors on Elanor....[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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