Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: chipmunk
Page Views: 927 total · 5/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Aug 10, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Temporary trail closure & Thumb and Needle Closures - resolved with The Thumb Open Space creation DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This is the line to the right of the Uphill Slabs aka TR wall. It is probably the easiest way to the top of the rock. Rossiter's guidebook rates it as 5.4. Gillett's guidebook rates it as 5.0. So, let's split the difference. It probably depends on exactly where you stop, since getting to the first set of chains is a bit easier/less exposed than getting to the top.

Start just to the right of the shallow, right-facing dihedral/crescent of the north face of the rock. Follow jugs up. Not much pro until about 30 feet up. Some cracks appear. There are chains about 60 feet up. There are also chains at the top of the rock. Note, these are set back a bit, so you get a bit of rope drag.

Probably, most important, this is not the best route for a small kid, since the holds are fairly well-spaced.

Location Suggest change

This is on the North face of the rock, just to the right of a shallow, right-facing dihedral.

Protection Suggest change

Light rack to at most a #3 Camalot.

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