|Type:||Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 65'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]|
|FA:||Moira Smith and Scott Ayers 1990|
|Submitted By:||David C. Burke on Mar 11, 2007|
|Comments on Deranged Of Late||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Joseph Stover
From: Batesville, AR
Apr 8, 2007
If you like no friction, no holds, bulging slab, then you will love this route!
There is runout above the 3rd bolt (maybe 2nd, can't remember). It is easy ground, but there are no holds and the rock is pretty smooth. It does end at the only hold on the route though!
I couldn't figure out the finish. I did it direct on toprope, but the leader went far right. I think it is supposed to go quite a bit left above the last bolt.
I actually thought Space Cowboy was easier because it had holds.
By Scott Tucker
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 23, 2007
|I think I lost my ego on this route. It will look deflated and should be somewhere just below the anchors. If anyone sees it, tell it wait for me, I've just gone to look for the holds for this route as they seem to be missing.|
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jan 1, 2008
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
The waxy feel to the holds even down low really took away from my enjoyment of the route. I felt like I could grease off at any time, even from the easy moves.
As for the top, I'm at least victim #3.
I tried to go directly at the chains and found that the holds just are not there. I hung and stared at it for a while. Well, even the book shows going left, despite the chains being to the right, for whatever reason. Kinda silly.
By Kyle Andringa
From: Sahuarita, AZ
Apr 13, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
|I felt the crux of this route was making the second bolt. I spent a while figuring out the move but finally had to commit to my feet and palm the rock. The move is well protected however. There is a significant gap between the 3rd & 4th bolt. However, if you go off to the left the terrain is ~5.8-. Most of the route is fairly sustained but well protected. There is a decent hold just to the right and below the chains that is essential to finishing this one out.|
By Chelsea Cook
Apr 24, 2009
|I have to mostly agree with Andrew, but I don't think it warrants "avoiding" so I rated it "ok". If you like slab, it is just an okay route. If you hate slab, then avoid it. It won't change your mind about slab and there is better slab elsewhere.|
By James Xu
From: Flagstaff, Arizona
Jul 26, 2012
Definitely a tricky and balancy route, but fun.
Onsighted it this afternoon after looking for something simple and easy to do, and soon discovered that this route was more than what you'd think a 5.9 slab would throw at you.
Had to do some weird high foot moves and mantles that required you to move super slow and use any little edge to your advantage, but it is rather glossy, apparently blank, and annoying.
Pretty much every bulge in the rock required a balancy mantle of some sort.
For the runout section, just go slow on the ramp up to the nice pockets directly under the bolt.
To get to the anchors and get around the last bulge, I moved about 5 feet to the right from the anchors and mantled off where the bulge was shallower.