JJ Memorial 5.13b
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| Type: | Sport |
| Consensus: | 5.13b [details] |
| FA: | Unknown |
| Submitted By: | SMR on Oct 16, 2012 |
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Description
It looks like this one is missing from the line-up on MP.
This climb starts out of the pit on a large lay-backish hold. Requires burly pulling and a heel-toe gimmick may help in this section. After the roof section, the head wall has some smaller crimps/feet.
I thought Wicked Bender started on the Pit and then moved left to share anchors with Derailed, but my info could be wrong.
Location Starts on the left side of the pit
Protection Bolts/quick-draws
By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
Oct 16, 2012
rating: 5.13b
| That might clear up some confusion here about grades. This start is much harder than Wicked Bender. |
By bheller
From: SL UT
Apr 10, 2013
rating: 5.13b
| This route is named The JJ memorial- no "derailed" exists on this wall.
I spoke with the developer of this wall today. He informed me of some mis-information here on MP. This route is called The JJ memorial- It was named in honor of a friend who worked at a climbing gym in park city and died tragically. JJ loved climbing at the dry wall.
The start is a tricky move using a high right-facing sidepull (good hold) above a sandstone shelf within the cave. Technical climbing, great sequences, and hard pulls on shallow pockets characterize this great route. Feels like multiple boulder problems with a couple of marginal shakes. The lower section is a little sandy, but the orange stone at the top is beautiful- the climbing and the rock color are reminiscent of the Churning Buttress routes at Smith Rocks. High tech kneebar action seems to be the ticket (for some) with the boulder problem off the ground. |
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