Der Letzte Zug 5.12c
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12c [details] |
| FA: | Jessie Guthrie, 1990 |
| Submitted By: | Joe Collins on Jun 7, 2005 |
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Jerry Moffatt on Der Letzte Zug.
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Description The name is German for "The Last Course". This is a decent sport route on the upper tier of Coney Island Crag. It is the line immediately right of Joy Ride, and left of the 13b face/arete.
Make tricky moves up to the high first bolt, then move up under the roof and get ready for the crux. The crux is a difficult 3-4 move boulder problem getting past the 2nd bolt. Get a good rest after this then continue on sustained, pumpy 12- to the anchors. For reference, this route is WAY more difficult than Joy Ride, though only a letter grade harder... definitely recommended for those who whine about soft BoCan ratings.
Protection 6 or 7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.
| Comments on Der Letzte Zug |
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By Jesse Guthrie
From: Prague Czech Republic
Jul 12, 2005
| Actually the name is German for "The last pull" or "the last toke" amongst other meanings...Jesse. |
By EJM
Mar 8, 2010
rating: 5.12c
| I think this is one of the finest sport routes in Boulder Canyon, definitely my favorite for the grade...not trivial. |
By pefue
From: Erlangen, Germany
Dec 17, 2010
| "The last pull" is the correct translation. |
By Mark Wiranowski
Mar 29, 2012
| On 3/28/12, the bolt on the crux clip (above the bottom roof) was loose. I finger-tightened but didn't have a wrench. There is also a rapid link on that bolt for bailing. |
By Curt MacNeill
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 3, 2012
| This route is mega classic and will give you a beatdown at the crux. Getting an onsight would give you instant street cred, and if you're one of those people who complain about BOCO being soft, I think this route will change your opinion. I have done many 5.13s that didn't have as hard of a boulder problem crux as this route. Very delicate feet with horrible, sloping crimps just over the roof, including a right handed crux sidepull. If you do this route when it's warm and sunny, give yourself a few extra letter grades for the send. I have found this route to be nearly impossible if it's over 60 degrees. Cold Cloudy conditions will make it easier.... |
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