Deprived Child 5.6 PG13
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.6 [details] |
| FA: | Dave Whalen, Darrell Jordan - 1986 |
| Submitted By: | saxfiend on Dec 7, 2007 |
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BETA PHOTO: Bolts are about a foot right of the rope. Direct s...
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Description A really nice line for the (slightly sandbagged) grade, with a spicy alternate start.
Move up and left on the slab to a gap in the overlap above. Though it's fairly easy climbing, this start is runout with no pro until you reach a bolt below the overlap maybe 30' up. Continue up on good friction following the bolted line to the top.
Direct start (5.10a): Climb left of the regular start to join the route just below the first bolt. No protection.
Location Starts about 15' right of All I Wanted was a Pepsi.
Protection Mixed; five bolts supplemented by a light rack. Bolted anchors at the top.
| Comments on Deprived Child |
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By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Jan 7, 2008
| Fun lead, very much worth doing. |
By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Jul 1, 2009
rating: 5.6
| Not really PG13. Start from the flake, placing gear under the flake in the cracks. Takes C3's nicely. Probably a little harder than 5.6 only using the flake. |
By JohnWesely
From: Athens, GA
Sep 30, 2011
| Where does the direct route start? I tried doing it at the obvious place, almost directly beneath the first bolt on the face, and found it to be almost impossible before breaking a hold. |
By andjoely
From: Clemson, SC
Oct 5, 2011
| The direct start (or at least the one I always do) is a cool little boulder problem that starts above the sketchy landing where the rock sticks out just left of a highly eroded area. I would estimate the grade of this start to be about 11b, though the sketchy landing and warm weather can make it feel even harder. |
By Will Rynes
From: Seaside CA
Jun 2, 2012
rating: 5.6
| Fun little route, really straight forward with no shortage of hands or feet the whole way. The direct start was pretty cool with a highstep mantle move down low and nice sloper above that. |
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