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Unnamed short 11- w/ traverse to left crack T 

Dental Floss Tycoon 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: unknown to me
Page Views: 2,372
Submitted By: david goldstein on May 13, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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Mike Morley heads back down from Dental Floss Tyco...

Description 

I wish the MP had a rating between good and great: a 2.5 star.

The softest 11 in Bloom's book?

A long, fun right-facing corner with rests. The first half follows a single crack of hands and wide hands. The second half has double cracks, wide on the left, thin on the right. No hard moves, but gear/lead management is an issue. There is a decent stance at the anchors, so if the leader doesn't feel like hauling a 2nd rope up there, he/she can comfortably belay on high.

At about 2/3's height take a look to your left and check out the massive eye bolt on the next climb over (not in Bloom). Was a jackhammer used to drill that hole?


Location 

Starts in the alcove on the left side of the huge pillar where the trail comes up.


Protection 

Camalots: several #2 & #3s, 1 or 2 #4s, a few in the .4 to #1 range, draws and runners. Zircon-encrusted tweezers.



Photos of Dental Floss Tycoon Slideshow Add Photo
Dental Floss Tycoon climbing on the lower part through the nice hand crack.
Dental Floss Tycoon climbing on the lower part thr...
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By Roger Linfield
Feb 27, 2007

This is a long (maybe more like 165' than 150'), fun route. My partner and I agreed that 5.10b is a more appropriate rating.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Mar 19, 2007
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Soft for sure. No reason to call it 11-, but in no way am I bad-mouthing the climb. Just as you get tired of one sort of move, you start on another. Many stars for length, continuity, rock quality, and variety with good gear.

Rack should include more #3 camalots and less #3 friends. A new-style #4 camalot was adequate and the old heavy clunker was not needed. Furthermore, take an extra 1" and .75" for the top then you need less big gear, as you protect with small stuff on the right side instead.
170' long by our estimation.

By C Miller
Administrator
Mar 21, 2007

The name of this route comes from the Frank Zappa song Montana, which is on the classic Overnite Sensation album (1973).

Sample lyrics -

"Movin' to Montana soon
Gonna be a Dental Floss tycoon (yes I am)
Movin' to Montana soon
Gonna be a mennil-toss flykune"

As noted in the rack description, don't forget the tweezers!

By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Mar 23, 2007
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Not to be missed!

By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Nov 15, 2009
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

This climb has some great variety. It goes from hands, thin hands, hands, squeeze, then fists with a finger crack. The crux is probably the last 10ft to the anchors, when you lieback the finger crack. This is a full value 165ft pitch.

Rack:
1 #0.3, 2 #0.4, 3 #0.5, 1-2 #0.75, 3 #1, 6-7 #2, 5 #3, #4fr, #4C4
Save the small stuff and the #3/#4C4's for the top...

By Dustin B
From: Steamboat
Nov 28, 2010

Anyone know what the righthand variation is?

By Devin Fin
From: DURANGO
Apr 30, 2013

new chins at the top makes for easy rapt hanks for the upgrade..

By J. Hickok
Sep 29, 2013

I think the right variation is harder 5.11