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 ADVANCED
b. Jackie and friends
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.10 Top Rope TR 
A-Gape T 
Ape and Essence T,TR 
Ape Call T 
Badcliff T 
Belly Roll T 
Betty T 
Blackout, The T 
Classic T 
Classy T 
Daydream T 
Dennis T 
Disco Death March T 
Habanero Balls T,TR 
Into Thin Hair T,TR 
Jackie T 
Jane T 
Jasmine T 
Matinee T 
Miss Bailey T 
P38 T 
Pebbles TR 
Pink Laurel T 
Raubenheimer Special T 
RMC T 
Roddy T 
Slightly Roddey T,TR 
Stirrup Trouble T 
Unsorted Routes:

Dennis 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Gardiner Perry, Mary Perry, and Ann Buffin
Page Views: 4,687
Submitted By: John Peterson on May 28, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (141)
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Shirley on the initial difficulty.

Description 

Dennis starts just left of Belly Roll (look for a roof about 15' up), just past the Uberfall area.

Climb up and over the roof (crux). Then step left to a short smooth slab and up easier ground to a headwall. Climb a weakness in the wall to a good ledge. Some belay here.

From the ledge, go up and right, past a fixed pin, and up towards an obvious prow. Pass more fixed pins and step right around the corner just below the final vertical section.

Best to walk off via the Uberfall Descent.

Protection 

Standard Gunks rack


Photos of Dennis Slideshow Add Photo
Tricia at the start. (photo by Dave Merle)
Tricia at the start. (photo by Dave Merle)
Dave Merle nearing the optional belay.
Dave Merle nearing the optional belay.
Emma following P2 of Dennis. Nice and exposed.
Emma following P2 of Dennis. Nice and exposed.
Emma following the easy, but exposed P2 of Dennis
Emma following the easy, but exposed P2 of Dennis

Comments on Dennis Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 23, 2014
By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Sep 29, 2007
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

The overhung start sequence is fun, but unfortunately it's the only part of the route that's really worth doing.
By Tim Schafstall
From: Newark, DE
Apr 2, 2008
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13

Disagree with Sax. The second pitch is a blast with wonderful exposure if, instead of topping out shortly above the GT ledge, you continue climbing right to merge with P2 of Belly Roll. A fun traverse and step around the exposed bulge are really fun and the gear is excellent.

This is an excellent variation for a newer leader who needs some "exposure to exposure" as it has bomber gear with fun moves and lots of air (for the Gunks).
By divnamite
From: New York, NY
Nov 2, 2008
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13

The crux is the overhang start sequence, the low angle slab 15 ft up is fun as well. I don't know if P2 is worth doing, if you link both together, then maybe.
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Aug 17, 2009
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

I only did the first pitch but it was my first trad lead, found it much fun
By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Apr 5, 2010

I think Dennis is a great climb. It has a fun crux right off the ground, a little slabby section, a stair case, followed by some vertical, all on one pitch! The second pitch is only a "3", but it has wild exposure. All and all a fun climb. I would like to try the 5.9 variation.
By Jake D.
From: Northeast
Jun 21, 2010

There were no slings on the P1 tree so we continued up and did P2 also and it is definitely nice. bringing our sandals for the walkoff would have been key :P
By Barrett Stetson
Oct 31, 2010

I found it better than PG-13, but I do carry a lot of cams and I used a good variety of them (I don't recall seeing a lot of bomber nut placements but I might not have been looking hard enough). A #2 camalot protects the start sequence quite well.
By doligo
Nov 1, 2010
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13

PG is not for the crux, but for the run-out slab above the crux, IMO. The crux itself is well protected.
By AndyGriffin
Mar 6, 2012

I highly recommend the variation that links up with P2 of Belly Roll. Much better finish than the traditional one. Only problem is that Belly Roll is a popular climb and there may be a lot of traffic if two parties are leaving at the same time.
By w00dy
May 6, 2012

There is a fixed rap ring at the end of the first pitch now, but there isn't anything to rap off of at the top. You can either walk off via uberfall descent or rap down Jackie, but on a busy weekend you're going to hit traffic doing the latter.

The route is well protected except for a polished section shortly after the first crux. You just have to smear the face and hope you don't slip!

Tim - as a new leader doing 5's, I was a bit hesitant to do the variation as it was rated 5.9 in the gray dick. You say it's an excellent variation for a newer leader; did you think it is significantly easier than a 9?
By Barrett Stetson
Jul 24, 2012

I think he might be talking about the P2 variation that joins up to the top of Belly Roll. I unintentionally ended up doing that variation when I did it.
By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Oct 28, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

This would be a 5.6 anywhere else.
By Mthoresz
Oct 13, 2014

Cool, fun start moves and a nice all-around climb at 5.5.
By Dan Africk
From: Brooklyn, New York
Oct 23, 2014
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

I found this climb pleasant and well protected. The crux was definitely at the beginning, it seemed a bit committing (but I was tired and it was my first climb of the day..).

Extend your your runners well especially at the beginning, and rope drag isn't bad. No need to use the optional belay unless you're running out of gear/runners.