Demon's Delight is a fantastic outing that doesn't appear to receive much attention, but certainly deserves it. If you're looking for four pitches of sustained and interesting climbing, and trying to avoid crowds, go for it.
The climb takes a traversing line up a large left facing corner/roof system on Shultz's Ridge. Scramble up some 4th/low 5th class ground to a perch in a tree.
P1: Ascend the steep left-facing corner via a hand crack, then jam and undercling out a roof and up to a stance for a belay. 5.10.
P2: Bust left out the roof on positive jams and small feet and perform a very powerful lieback move to get around the corner. Continue up to an ill-defined site for a hanging belay. 5.11a.
P3: Continue a short ways up the corner, then begin a long leftwards traverse. Pass a quartzite band with difficult pro but good holds, rest, and then continue out the roof on very thin underclings and feet. Save small cams for this stretch, and marshall your gear in general on this long pitch. Belay just around the corner at bolts. 5.11a.
P4: Head up the thin corner with tricky gear to an obvious mantle crux (hint: there is a very inobvious way to solve this that utilizes an undercling if you, like me, can't make the mantle work). Continue up a thin flake via jams and stems to a bolted belay. This last stretch has pretty poor pro and some questionable rock. 5.11a.
Descent: One nice feature of this route is that you only need to carry one rope on the climb: Leave your second rope at the base and have one person single-line rap to the ground from the top anchor. This person can then tie the ropes together and the last person down can pull the rope up and do one 60m rap to the ground.
Two each from TCU's to hands, one each 3 and 4 inch pieces. Small wires.
BETA PHOTO: Low Rez Topo.
|By Rob Dillon|
Sep 21, 2009
If one were to bring, say, 4x #1 Camalots along, one would have both pro for the second pitch and for the anchor at its top. Without this things get a little scrappy, especially since the belay is pretty much fully hanging.
|By Mark K|
Sep 26, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Super fun and unique climbing. Don't let the mantle scare you, it's well protected and not too bad. Good climb to avoid the crowds.
|By Chris I|
From: Fresno, CA
May 12, 2014
Outstanding route, especially if you like underclinging and laybacking! 4x #1 camalot was good beta. As of now there is a fixed nut just below the mantle crux which was nice. I probably whipped on it more than a dozen times trying to figure out that move. I'm very interested in the secret undercling beta for the last pitch mantle because I couldn't make it happen. All cruxes have good gear. I would go as small as 2x purple metolius on my rack, otherwise the rack beta is spot on.