Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Schultz's Ridge
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Are You Hard Enough? S 
Bikini Beach Party T 
Burden of Dreams T 
Caught at the Lip S 
Crystalline Passage S 
Demon's Delight T 
Dreams of Thailand S 
Gidget Goes to Yosemite S 
Hooter Alert S 
Just Do Me S 
Moratorium, The T 
New Suede Shoes S 
Proud Snapper T 
Psycho Bitch T 
Second Thoughts T 
Superstem S 
Warm Up Crack T 

Demon's Delight 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Barry & Hitchcock - 1978
Page Views: 2,102
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Sep 21, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
3rd pitch crux.. underclinging tips crack

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Demon's Delight is a fantastic outing that doesn't appear to receive much attention, but certainly deserves it. If you're looking for four pitches of sustained and interesting climbing, and trying to avoid crowds, go for it.

The climb takes a traversing line up a large left facing corner/roof system on Shultz's Ridge. Scramble up some 4th/low 5th class ground to a perch in a tree.

P1: Ascend the steep left-facing corner via a hand crack, then jam and undercling out a roof and up to a stance for a belay. 5.10.

P2: Bust left out the roof on positive jams and small feet and perform a very powerful lieback move to get around the corner. Continue up to an ill-defined site for a hanging belay. 5.11a.

P3: Continue a short ways up the corner, then begin a long leftwards traverse. Pass a quartzite band with difficult pro but good holds, rest, and then continue out the roof on very thin underclings and feet. Save small cams for this stretch, and marshall your gear in general on this long pitch. Belay just around the corner at bolts. 5.11a.

P4: Head up the thin corner with tricky gear to an obvious mantle crux (hint: there is a very inobvious way to solve this that utilizes an undercling if you, like me, can't make the mantle work). Continue up a thin flake via jams and stems to a bolted belay. This last stretch has pretty poor pro and some questionable rock. 5.11a.

Descent: One nice feature of this route is that you only need to carry one rope on the climb: Leave your second rope at the base and have one person single-line rap to the ground from the top anchor. This person can then tie the ropes together and the last person down can pull the rope up and do one 60m rap to the ground.

Protection 

Two each from TCU's to hands, one each 3 and 4 inch pieces. Small wires.


Photos of Demon's Delight Slideshow Add Photo
Steve B nearing the top of the 2nd pitch
Steve B nearing the top of the 2nd pitch
Low Rez Topo.
BETA PHOTO: Low Rez Topo.
Starting pitch 3: climber is in the crystal band a...
Starting pitch 3: climber is in the crystal band a...
Pitch 1 - the only one in good shade.
Pitch 1 - the only one in good shade.
lots of liebacking
lots of liebacking

Comments on Demon's Delight Add Comment
Show which comments
By Rob Dillon
Sep 21, 2009

If one were to bring, say, 4x #1 Camalots along, one would have both pro for the second pitch and for the anchor at its top. Without this things get a little scrappy, especially since the belay is pretty much fully hanging.
By Mark K
Sep 26, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Super fun and unique climbing. Don't let the mantle scare you, it's well protected and not too bad. Good climb to avoid the crowds.
By Chris I
From: Fresno, CA
May 12, 2014

Outstanding route, especially if you like underclinging and laybacking! 4x #1 camalot was good beta. As of now there is a fixed nut just below the mantle crux which was nice. I probably whipped on it more than a dozen times trying to figure out that move. I'm very interested in the secret undercling beta for the last pitch mantle because I couldn't make it happen. All cruxes have good gear. I would go as small as 2x purple metolius on my rack, otherwise the rack beta is spot on.
By Vlad S
Feb 17, 2015

Single 70 m rope is plenty to rap the route, no need for a 2nd rope. The last two stations are equipped for rapelling, but bring webbing to reinforce the last rap as they are a bit vintage. I thought the 2nd pitch was the hardest - thin hand jams or undercling in a glassy crack with very poor feet. That was pumpy! The mantle can be done 2 ways depending on how tall you are. Easier for shorter folks as you can get a good left foot 2 inches below the mantle ledge. For medium size people undercling right and press out hard with the left while smearing your left foot and bring the right foot up to the ledge. Once you do the mantle it's still not over until your are standing on the next ledge! Surprisingly tiring route for only 4 pitches, but dearth of footholds on all pitches makes you work a bit harder.
By Brian Prince
From: morro bay, ca
Feb 17, 2015

It is a tough route for 4 pitches and short ones at that. Agree about the 2nd being the overall crux. But interesting... the way I did the mantle, I figure it's easier for taller/greater wingspan people. But thanks for the undercling beta.. look forward to trying it someday. Fixed nut is still there and still catching whippers :)
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!