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Elevation: 9,500 ft
GPS: 37.93738, -119.22791
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 10,315 total · 99/month
Shared By: Bruce Morris on Sep 23, 2015
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description Suggest change

This is the first cliff band down and to your left (N) after you pass the Spillway Crag. There are many short cracks here between 35 and 80 feet that can be either led or TRed from numerous double bolt anchors along the broad flat top. The most obvious line in the right-facing "Demonology" dihedral. Shady in the morning, the whole crag comes into the sun in the afternoon. There is a prominent ledge bisecting the whole cliff at mid-height.

Getting There Suggest change

To reach these short cracks, walk out the Mining Road a 1/2 mile from the Ellery Dam until you pass "Gold Mind" (5.9) on the Spillway Crag to your right. Either descend down the talus field to your left (N) to the very bottom of the cliff or else walk a little further and rap in from the top to a broad ledge that traverses the whole cliff at mid-height.

13 Total Climbs

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Location: Demonology Cliff Band Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Demonology Cliff Band

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 9
Demonology
Trad, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
 4
Sweet Suspicion
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Demonology
 9
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Sweet Suspicion
 4
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R Trad, TR
More Classic Climbs in Demonology Cliff Band »

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