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 ADVANCED
(01) Jabba the Hutt/Sport-Homo Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Demon Within S,TR 
Duuuude! S,TR 
I'm Just a Little Hoppy Bunny S,TR 
Leaning Slab S,TR 
Mr. Moto T 

Demon Within 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 25'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Michael LaPlante
Page Views: 158
Submitted By: Alexander Nees on Apr 25, 2007

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Description 

Demon Within is not much more than a boulder problem, but boy is it fun! Climb the THIN, off-vertical slab to a big ledge midway up the cliff face. The moves are technical and balancy, not strength-dependent, and height is not an advantage. And the clipping stances are good. Once you reach the second bolt, the climbing eases considerably to the ledge. There are many different solutions to this route's challenges.

If you want to TR this one, you have to scramble up to the ledge via the chimney on the right (next to "Leaning Slab"), then traverse left along the large ledge to reach the anchors. This can be easily done, and is recommended if you don't feel like leading it.


Location 

Immediately left of the obvious wide crack ("Redemption") on the Sport-Homo Wall. The anchors on the ledge are easily accessed by scrambling up the chimney on the right (easy 4th) for setting a TR. Rap off or scramble down the chimney to descend.


Protection 

2 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. Bring long slings for a TR.



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