Demanda 5.9
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9+ [details] |
| FA: | Josh Smith, Gary Parker, Jason Halladay |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Josh Smith on Mar 22, 2009 |
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Fritzy cranking through the lower portion of Deman...
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Description Has a crux down low, and then has pretty fun, rambly climbing. This route is kind of squeezed in with Pitchfork and Pale Rider, and about a third of the way up all three routes converge. Stick with the middle line if you want the climbing to stay at 5.9.
Location On the left end of Walt's Wall.
Protection 12 bolts to chains
Past the business on Demanda.
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Installing the bolts on Demanda, May 23, 200...
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This place is awesome.
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By Daniel Trugman
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Jun 16, 2009
rating: 5.9+
| Great moderate sport route with cool, varied moves and a line that just keeps going! Crux is the first twenty five feet with easier but arguably more entertaining 5.8 above.
I'm guessing a 50m rope won't work as I had less than twenty feet left in my 60m after lowering off. |
By Chris Wenker
From: Santa Fe
Jun 29, 2009
rating: 5.9
| Does the anchor seem off-route, too far to the right? It seems like there's a big swing potential for any toprope followers. Or were we off-route?
My belayer was holding the halfway mark on my 60m rope exactly when I hit the anchor, so a 50 wouldn't do it. |
By Daniel Trugman
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Jun 29, 2009
rating: 5.9+
| I think the anchors were put in before the route was climbed (probably to provide a top-rope anchor for cleaning) and thus it wasn't clear at the time where the line was going. I agree that the anchors are a little off to the right but I'm not sure it's a big enough deal to warrant moving them (I presume this is the FAs line of thinking as well). |
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