|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 700', Grade III|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA:||Bill Alexander, Mason Reid|
|Submitted By:||Nick Stayner on Jul 31, 2007|
|Comments on Dem Bones||Add Comment|
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By Andy Laakmann
From: Bend, OR
Jul 21, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Climbed this on 7/21/2008.... It was a fun adventure, but my partner and I felt the unsustained nature of the climbing didn't merit the approach and somewhat stressful descent. See notes below.
2.5 hours to the bivy spot at Lake Taminah. Beautiful spot, the highlight of the trip. We ended up getting a little lost looking for the Avalanche Canyon trail, and that may have saved us some time.... but I don't recommend it, the bushwack wasn't worth the time savings. Plan on 3 hours. Definitely a rugged trail with downed logs and lots of bogs. Expect to lose the trail a few times, but it will always reappear.
45 minutes from the bivy to the base of first pitch. I think the climb would be very difficult to locate with only the information in the Jackson/Ortengenberger book. The photos in that book really give no indication of where the route is located, as they appear to be aerial photographs. We had print outs from the Teton Rock CD and it make locating the route trivial.
The climb went very quickly. We did it in 5 long pitches, and I think it took a little over 3 hours. The buttress was much lower angle than it appeared, and it was basically 700 feet of 5.6-5.7ish climbing with a handful of 5.9 moves. Even the splitter crack at the end felt around 5.9 and was very short (like 20 feet!) The rock was excellent quality, but the climbing was much easier and less sustained than we anticipated. So in that regard it was a bit of a let down. Was it fun? Yes, but neither my partner nor I would do it again.
The descent was somewhat gripping. A big snow year left the slabs with plenty of snow. We were able to avoid the snow, but the hanging slabs (with cliffs below) were quite wet. Eventually we did a rising traverse to the end of the slabs, only to find the dismount to the snow rendered impossible by a yawning moat. Ug. We backtracked some, and found another way to go lower on the slab. We were about to downclimb (5'5ish?) to the snow when we noticed a rap anchor (nut+bush). We decided to rap... and good thing... the 5.5ish slab terminated in a 50-100' deep and 5' wide moat! Fortunately with the rap it was easy to swing out onto the snow.
We brought axes, and damn good thing. The first 300' of the snow was steep and firm. Axe mandatory. Eventually the angle lessened and we glissaded to the scree.
The descent took 2 hours from the top to the bivy spot. And then another 2 hours of stumbling down the unmaintined trail back to the car.
7 hours of hiking/approaching/descending in total. Lots of 5.6 climbing, a handful of 5.9 moves, and a non-trivial descent. You be the judge :)
On a positive note.. .the rock was great quality, the bivy rad, and the view tremendous - particularly from the summit into the South Teton / Cloudveil Dome cirque.
I plan to return to Avalanche Canyon. The spot is beautiful, and Blind Man's Bluff (5.8, about 30 minutes directly above the bivy spot) looks like a very enjoyable route to return for. But I won't be heading up for Dem Bones anytime soon, though it was a fun tick.
Rack - Nuts + Doubles TCUs to #3 camalot is plenty. We linked some pitches, so having the doubles was nice. Lots of long runners. Ice Axe, and consider crampons if firm snow is a possibility.
By Andrew Carson
From: Wilson, WY
Feb 17, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
|We were actively looking for the finishing crux crack but still missed it... very typical Teton route finding issues. Many choices, not an obvious unmistakeable line. This is a good route well worth doing.|