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Routes in Whale Dome
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Blood Brother T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Call Me Ishmael T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Dem Bones T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Harpoon Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Moby Dick T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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South Face T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X |
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South Face Direct Finish // Mobius Strip T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Trojan, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 660 ft (200 m), 5 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Charlie Rollins & Bob Kerry |
| Page Views: | 4,864 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | Joseph Lee on Nov 8, 2005 |
| Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
Fun route. I think the line we climbed is Dem Bones.
Approach: Take a side trail marked by a cairn heading directly north from the end of the approach road. Follow the drainage. At the first fork, go left and then out of the wash. Drop back in and follow the drainage to Moby Dick. When you are almost at Moby Dick, take a steep drainage left that takes you to the base of Moby Dick. Go left for Moby Dick. Go right for Dem Bones. You will recognize Dem Bones by two bolts side by side.
Pitch 1: The crux is a solid 5.10 move past the first bolts. Then angle right and up past one bolt followed by plates. Belay on a slab.
Pitch 2: Climb a poorly protected slab to more plates and then traverse right to a hidden crack. Follow the crack to a face and right angling corner ramp. I belayed after the crux.
Pitch 3: Head up the plates and chickenheads to another low angled slab. We moved left up the slab to a belay area.
Pitch 4: Climb the low angled run out slab past bomber plates a steeper face with a few bolts and a dike on the right side. I think this joins Moby Dick. We belayed part way up the face.
Pitch 5: Continue up the easy face to the summit.
Descent: On the back side of Moby Dick is a rappel anchor. Two ropes needed for the rappel. If the wind is blowing, there is a good chance your ropes may get caught on rocks around the corner. I would recommend that the first one down carry the rope ends with him/her. Then walk down the left gully (heading south).
Approach: Take a side trail marked by a cairn heading directly north from the end of the approach road. Follow the drainage. At the first fork, go left and then out of the wash. Drop back in and follow the drainage to Moby Dick. When you are almost at Moby Dick, take a steep drainage left that takes you to the base of Moby Dick. Go left for Moby Dick. Go right for Dem Bones. You will recognize Dem Bones by two bolts side by side.
Pitch 1: The crux is a solid 5.10 move past the first bolts. Then angle right and up past one bolt followed by plates. Belay on a slab.
Pitch 2: Climb a poorly protected slab to more plates and then traverse right to a hidden crack. Follow the crack to a face and right angling corner ramp. I belayed after the crux.
Pitch 3: Head up the plates and chickenheads to another low angled slab. We moved left up the slab to a belay area.
Pitch 4: Climb the low angled run out slab past bomber plates a steeper face with a few bolts and a dike on the right side. I think this joins Moby Dick. We belayed part way up the face.
Pitch 5: Continue up the easy face to the summit.
Descent: On the back side of Moby Dick is a rappel anchor. Two ropes needed for the rappel. If the wind is blowing, there is a good chance your ropes may get caught on rocks around the corner. I would recommend that the first one down carry the rope ends with him/her. Then walk down the left gully (heading south).
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