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Scramble up onto an angled ledge. If you're brave (or stupid), don't pre-clip the first bolt. Or, don't even toprope in to set your draws. I contemplated giving this a V5 grade, but decided that would be deceiving and possibly dangerous. Nonetheless, it's basically a bolted, boulder problem. Crimpy, with a power move or two, this fun little climb will keep you on your toes. Hold it together long enough to clip the second draw and prepare to crank a creepy mantle over the arete and onto the sloping face. Don't get too deluded over your success upon sending; it's only 25 feet.
This is the furthest bolted line to the left, even further than Bonehead, albeit 10 feet up and around the corner from it. Climbs the slightly overhanging face to the right of Black Haul.
3 draws, shares anchors with Bonehead. One may desire to lower from the last bolt via leading Bonehead. I did this, then came down and lead it, clipping the first draw from the ground up. Good luck, and bring an extra pair of shorts.
|By Chris Cavallaro|
Apr 23, 2012
Why is this one bolted so boldly/stupidly? I know, so only 1% of the climbers will climb it.
It looks really good, so I'll probably try and toprope it sometime.