Delusions of Grandeur
5.12c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 2.5 from 6 votes
Type: | Sport |
FA: | Jack Hunt, Norman Slade, 1992 |
Page Views: | 1,378 total · 5/month |
Shared By: | Richard M. Wright on Nov 29, 2001 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: ACCESS ISSUE* - PULLOUT PARKING CLOSURE
Details
Per A Lee: *ACCESS ISSUE* - PULLOUT PARKING CLOSURE
The parking lot off Hwy 41G used to be the established point of access to the main canyon, but it is now closed. On 5/31/2020, an access issue arose due to the lot being overcrowded with ~7 vehicles. Saguache County Sheriff was called by the landowners, and the climbers were asked to leave the canyon. Climbers should park at the Penitente Main Canyon and hike in, or park at the established BLM parking lot 1 mile West on 41G and hike the road.
The SLV Climbers Alliance, with support from the Access Fund, is navigating this access issue. Contact slvclimb.org for questions or status reports, or join the Facebook Group "San Luis Valley Climbers Alliance" for the latest updates.
The parking lot off Hwy 41G used to be the established point of access to the main canyon, but it is now closed. On 5/31/2020, an access issue arose due to the lot being overcrowded with ~7 vehicles. Saguache County Sheriff was called by the landowners, and the climbers were asked to leave the canyon. Climbers should park at the Penitente Main Canyon and hike in, or park at the established BLM parking lot 1 mile West on 41G and hike the road.
The SLV Climbers Alliance, with support from the Access Fund, is navigating this access issue. Contact slvclimb.org for questions or status reports, or join the Facebook Group "San Luis Valley Climbers Alliance" for the latest updates.
Description
Coming out of the cave just right of Buffalo Chips is a very steep line that begins on huge lay-away jugs; this is Delusions, and is aptly named (at least for some of us). Continuous and powerful flake climbing for three bolts leads out of the cave and into gonad-land. This climb is a bit weird in the sense that the pro is so reasonable where the climbing is powerful, but gets really sparse where the climbing gets technical. It is possible to pre-clip a long sling from the bolt above the cave, and this seems very desirable since the run-out comes close on the heels of very pumpy climbing. Pull out of the cave onto a short very technical grey face with reachy moves on good stone. Subsequently, a good horizontal stance can be negotiated via a sizeable pocket. This is followed by more thin edge climbing on near perfect rock. This route might deserve three stars, as consensus demands. The rock coming out of the cave is a bit dubious, but it has held up over the years and may only look as though it will break away. Otherwise, expect excellent climbing, powerful, and pretty scary in the middle - if it is done without pre-placing the draw.
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